Fabric & Materials
FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: a concealed zipper, fusible interfacing, 4 buttons.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for the dress bottom – 3.0 cm, slit allowance – 6 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Center front – 1 piece on fold
- Back yoke – 2 pieces
- Front yoke – 2 pieces
- Front insert – 1 piece
- Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Front neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Front insert facing – 1 piece
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Front neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Front insert facing – 1 piece
- Cuff – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to designated pieces.
- Stitch back princess seams, press allowances towards the center and overcast.
- Attach back yoke to the lower back, press allowances towards the yoke and overcast.
- On the left center back piece, trim 5 cm along the vertical edge of the vent. On both center back pieces, fuse interfacing to the vent from the wrong side. On the right side, mark the center seam line (vent fold line). Press the left side along the vent fold line; on the right side, press only the allowance of the right side of the vent (6 cm) to the wrong side. Align the pieces along the center seam and secure at the upper edge of the vent. Overcast the vent allowances. Stitch the center back seam from the mark to the corner of the vent. Clip the corner of the vent seam allowance on the right piece. Press open the center seam allowances, press the vent allowances and secure them with machine stitching. Insert the zipper.
- Stitch darts on the front, press depths towards the center.
- Stitch shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and overcast.
- Stitch shoulder seams of back and front neckline facings, overcast the outer edge. Place the dress and facing right sides together, aligning neckline edges, and stitch. Clip allowances at curves, turn facing to the wrong side and press. Secure the facing to the shoulder seams and to the zipper tape.
- Place the front insert facing and insert right sides together and stitch the outer edge. Trim allowances at corners, turn facing to the wrong side and press. Overcast buttonholes according to markings. Place the insert on the yokes and secure along the lower edge.
- Attach front yoke to the lower front, press allowances downwards and overcast.
- Stitch side seams, press allowances towards the back and overcast.
- Stitch sleeve seam, press allowances and overcast. Set sleeves into armholes, matching notches. Press allowances and overcast.
- Stitch cuff into a loop, press allowances open. Press cuff lengthwise in half, right side out. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve, press allowances towards the sleeve. Fold under the edge of the inner part of the cuff and topstitch into the seam of the outer attachment.
- Overcast the hem allowance of the dress bottom, press to the wrong side and hem with blind stitches.
- Sew buttons onto the yokes corresponding to the buttonholes.
