Pattern

Fabric & Materials

FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: dense dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. Contrasting fabric for trim. ALSO NEEDED: fusible interfacing; 1 invisible zipper; 6 buttons.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for front, back panels and insert – 3 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED.

• From main fabric:
  • Back panel – 2 pieces
  • Front panel right – 1 piece
  • Front panel left – 1 piece
  • Pocket facing – 2 pieces
• From contrasting fabric:
  • Placket – 1 piece
  • Waistband – 1 piece
  • Insert – 1 piece
  • Welt – 2 pieces
• FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING:
  • Placket – 1 piece
  • Waistband – 1 piece
  • Welt – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

1. Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing.
2. Stitch darts on back and front panel pieces, press depths towards the center.
3. Mark the location of the back pockets. Interface the pocket opening. Press the welt piece in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Stitch the welt to the back panel along the lower pocket marking line. Stitch the pocket facing to the back panel along the upper pocket marking line. Stitch ends finish at the short marking lines. Check the correctness of stitching the welt and pocket facing from the wrong side (stitches should be parallel). Cut the pocket opening. At a distance of 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket, make diagonal cuts. Turn the welt and pocket facing through the resulting opening to the wrong side, adjust the ends of the welt so that the fold meets the stitching seam of the pocket facing. Secure the ends of the pocket from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Topstitch the welt to the pocket facing in the stitching seam.
4. Overlock the center edges of the front panel separately. Overlock the vertical and upper edges of the insert. Stitch the insert to the front panels along the vertical edges. Stitch the center edge of the front panel from the upper edge to the pleat. Press allowances open, unfold and press the pleat. Lay a decorative-securing stitch along the base of the pleat.
5. Stitch side seams, press allowances towards the back panel and overlock.
6. Press the waistband piece in half lengthwise, right side out. Stitch the outer side of the waistband to the upper edge of the skirt, press allowances towards the waistband.
7. Press the placket allowances to the wrong side. Topstitch the placket to the front panel and waistband 0.1 cm from the edge.
8. Overlock the center edges of the back panel separately. Stitch the center seam from the zipper mark to the slit mark, press allowances open. Insert the invisible zipper. Along the slit, lay a decorative-securing stitch 0.5 cm from the fold.
9. Overlock the edge of the inner waistband. Topstitch the inner part into the stitching seam of the outer waistband.
10. Overlock the lower edge of the skirt, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
11. Sew buttons onto the placket.