Fabric & Materials
FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. ALSO NEEDED: fusible interfacing, 2 hidden hooks with loops.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Pocket top edge allowance – 3 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Upper back part – 2 pieces
- Back waistband - 1 piece
- Lower back part - 2 pieces
- Lower back placket - 2 pieces
- Lower front part – 2 pieces
- Front waistband - 2 pieces
- Upper front part - 2 pieces
- Upper front placket - 2 pieces
- Inner upper front placket - 2 pieces
- Lower front placket - 4 pieces
- Back neckline facing - 2 pieces
- Pocket - 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Lower back placket - 1 piece
- Inner upper front placket - 2 pieces
- Lower front placket - 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing - 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to relevant pieces.
- Stitch darts on back and front pieces; press waist dart fullness towards the center of the pieces, and bust darts upwards.
- Stitch the center seam on the upper and lower back parts, press allowances to the left side and overcast.
- Attach the back neckline facing to the upper back part, press allowances towards the facing. Attach the back placket to the lower back part, press allowances towards the placket.
- Attach the back waistband to the upper back part, press allowances towards the waistband and overcast. Attach the lower back part to the back waistband, press allowances towards the waistband and overcast.
- Overcast the upper edge of the pocket, press to the wrong side and topstitch. Overcast the pocket edges, press allowances to the wrong side. Place the pocket according to markings on the lower front part and topstitch.
- Attach the placket to the upper front part, press allowances towards the placket. Attach the placket to the lower front part, clipping at the corner, press allowances towards the placket.
- Attach the front waistband to the upper front part, press allowances towards the waistband and overcast. Attach the lower front part to the front waistband, press allowances towards the waistband and overcast.
- Stitch shoulder and side seams, press allowances towards the back and overcast.
- Stitch the inner plackets and back neckline facing into a loop, press allowances open. Place the inner placket with the dress right sides together and stitch around the neckline edge, center front edges, and lower edge. Clip allowances at curves, trim at corners. Turn pieces right side out, straighten, press. Fold the allowance of the inner placket inwards and topstitch into the seam of the outer placket attachment.
- Cut a bias binding 4 cm wide and a length equal to the armhole length + 4 cm. Fold the bias binding lengthwise in half, right side out, and press. Place the binding with the armhole edge, right side out, leaving tails, and stitch. Fold the binding to the wrong side, clip seams, and topstitch along the fold onto the main piece. Press.
- On the wrong side of the right front waistband, sew a hook, and a corresponding loop. Similarly, sew a hook and loop on the left front.
