Blouse with Pleated Front and Petal Sleeves

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: blouse fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: 6 buttons; fusible interfacing.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for the blouse bottom – 2 cm; allowance for the lower edges of the sleeves – 2 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Center front – 2 pieces
  • Side front – 2 pieces
  • Center back — 2 pieces
  • Side back — 2 pieces
  • Front sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Back sleeve — 2 pieces
  • Collar — 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing — 1 piece
  • Right front placket – 1 piece
  • Left front placket – 1 piece
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Back neckline facing — 1 piece
  • Right front placket – 1 piece
  • Left front placket – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
2. Stitch the front princess seams. Overlock the allowances and press towards the center. Overlock the collar along the rounded edge, press the allowance inwards and topstitch. Create pleats on the collar. Stitch the pleats for 3 cm from the neckline on the wrong side. Place the collar right side down on the wrong side of the front and stitch the neckline. Turn the collar to the right side, press the neckline. Secure the pieces along the shoulder seams, neckline, and center seam.
3. Stitch the darts on the back. Press the dart folds towards the center. Stitch the back princess seams. Overlock the allowances and press towards the center. Stitch the center back seam. Overlock the allowance and press to the left side. Overlock the outer edge of the back neckline facing. Stitch the back neckline with the facing. Clip the allowances and press.
4. Right front: Fuse the right placket from the edge to the “inner placket edge” line on the side of the buttonhole markings. Stitch the right placket to the front, press allowances towards the placket. Press the placket inwards to the wrong side along the “front edge” and “concealed placket edge” lines. Topstitch the placket into the attachment seam. Fold the inner part of the placket towards the front edge, press. Left front: Stitch the left placket to the front, press allowances towards the placket. Turn the inner edge inwards by 1 cm and topstitch into the attachment seam. Overlock the buttonholes.
5. Stitch the shoulder seams, inserting the front between the back and the facing. Overlock the allowances and press towards the back. Stitch the side seams, overlock the allowances and press towards the back.
6. Stitch the sleeve seam, press and overlock the allowance. Overlock the lower edge of the sleeve, press to the wrong side and topstitch. Along the upper edge of the sleeve, make a basting stitch with loose tension and gather. Place the back sleeve on the front sleeve and secure along the upper edge. Set the sleeves into the armholes. Overlock the allowances.
7. Overlock the hem allowance of the blouse bottom, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
8. Sew buttons onto the left front corresponding to the buttonholes.