Sleeveless Wrap Dress with Lapel Collar

Fabric & Materials

FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; a concealed zipper.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS ARE WITHOUT SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for the dress bottom – 3 cm; slit allowance - 6 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Back yoke - 1 piece
  • Center back - 2 pieces
  • Side front — 2 pieces
  • Center front - 2 pieces
  • Lower front – 1 piece on fold
  • Front side panel – 2 pieces
  • Pocket bag – 2 pieces
  • Lower back – 2 pieces
  • Collar – 2 pieces
  • Front facing - 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Belt – 1 piece
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Collar – 1 piece
  • Front facing - 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
2. Stitch the center seam of the center back, press seam allowances to the left and overcast.
3. Attach the back yoke to the back, press seam allowances upwards and overcast.
4. Stitch the darts on the lower back, press depths towards the center. On the left lower back piece, trim 5 cm along the vertical edge of the slit. On both back pieces, fuse interfacing to the slit from the wrong side. On the right side, mark the center seam line (slit fold line). Press the left part along the slit fold line, on the right part, press only the seam allowance of the right side of the slit (6 cm) to the wrong side. Align the pieces along the center seam and secure at the upper edge of the slit. Overcast the center back seam separately on each piece. Overcast the slit allowances. Stitch the center back seam from the upper edge to the slit corner. Clip the corner of the slit seam allowance on the right part. Press the center seam allowances open, press the slit allowances and secure them with machine stitching.
5. Place the upper collar and lower collar right sides together and stitch the ends and outer edge. Trim seam allowances at the corners, clip at the mark, turn the collar right side out, shape and press.
6. Place the front facing and front piece right sides together and stitch the lapel between the marks. Clip seam allowances at the marks, turn the pieces right side out, shape and press.
7. On the center front piece, trim dart allowances to 1 cm. Lay the right center front piece over the left, secure at the lower edge and stitch the darts, catching the unfinished sections of the center front seam, overcast allowances, press. Attach the side front piece to the center front piece, press allowances towards the center and overcast.
8. Stitch shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and overcast. Stitch shoulder seams of front facings and back neckline facing, press allowances open. Overcast outer edges.
9. Attach the lower collar to the main neckline, and the upper collar to the facing neckline, press allowances open, secure together.
10. Fold and stitch down 3 cm pleats on the lower front piece (depths directed towards the center). Place the pocket bag and lower front piece right sides together and stitch the pocket opening. Turn the pocket bag to the wrong side, press. Lay the lower front piece over the side panel and stitch the edges of the pocket bags, overcast allowances.
11. Stitch the upper and lower back and front pieces, press allowances upwards and overcast.
12. Stitch the right side seam, press allowance towards the back and overcast. Overcast left side edges separately. Stitch the left side seam from the armhole edge to the mark and from the mark to the bottom, press allowances open. Insert the zipper.
13. Cut (if not ready-made) a bias binding 4 cm wide and a length equal to the armhole length + 5 cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise right side out and press. Place the binding with the armhole edge right sides together and stitch. Clip allowances. Fold the binding to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold to the main piece. Press the seam.
14. Overcast the bottom edge of the dress, press to the wrong side and hem with blind stitches.
15. Fold the belt in half lengthwise right sides together and stitch, leaving an opening on the long side for turning. Turn the belt right side out and press.