Relaxed Raglan Sleeve Jacket

Fabric & Materials

FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: thin coat fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. ALSO NEEDED: fusible interfacing; raglan shoulder pads; hook and eye.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for sleeve bottom - 3 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Back – 2 pieces
  • Front – 2 pieces
  • Back sleeve part – 2 pieces
  • Front sleeve part – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back hem facing – 1 piece
  • Front hem facing – 2 pieces
• From FUSIBLE INTERFACING:
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Back hem facing – 1 piece
  • Front hem facing – 2 pieces

The sleeve hem allowance is also interfaced.

Sewing Instructions

1. Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing.
2. Stitch darts on back and sleeve pieces. Press back dart allowances towards the center, sleeve dart allowances upwards.
3. Stitch the center back seam, press allowances open, overcast.
4. Attach the back sleeve part to the back, press allowances open, overcast. Attach the front sleeve part to the front, press allowances open, overcast.
5. Attach the outer back neckline facing to the back, press allowances towards the facing.
6. Stitch the upper edges of the sleeves, press allowances open, overcast. Stitch the lower edges of the sleeves and side seams in one continuous line, press allowances towards the back, overcast.
7. Stitch the shoulder edges of the inner back neckline facing and front facings, press allowances open. Overcast the outer edge.
8. Place the front facings right sides together with the garment and stitch the front edge and back neckline edge, inserting the hook and eye. Clip allowances at curves, turn front facings to the right side, straighten and press. Stitch a securing stitch into the seam of the outer back neckline facing. Sew in shoulder pads.
9. Stitch the side edges of the hem facings, press allowances open. Overcast the outer edge. Attach the hem facing to the front facings. Place the hem facing and garment right sides together and stitch the lower corner of the front edge and the lower edge. Turn the facing to the wrong side, straighten, press. Secure the facing to the side and center back seams of the garment.