Collared Blouse Diagonal Front Pleat

Name: Collared Blouse Diagonal Front Pleat
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 4654
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #4654

A women's short-sleeved, hip-length blouse with a slightly flared shape, darts and pleats on the front that form diagonal lines from the neckline to the hem, and a rounded two-part collar on a stand. It fastens at the back neck with a bias loop and one button. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: blouse fabrics from natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Collared Blouse Diagonal Front Pleat

When To Wear

In summer at the office with straight trousers or a pencil skirt.
With jeans or a midi skirt for everyday wear in warm weather.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Slightly flared towards the hem.

Length: Hip length; 2 cm hem folded and topstitched.

Collar: Rounded flat collar in two halves, split at the centre front and centre back, set between the two layers of a stand.

Sleeves: Short set-in sleeves with a folded and topstitched hem.

Front: Cut in one piece on the fold. Darts, pressed towards the centre, and pleats laid and secured on the front create diagonal lines that open into an inverted V at the hem.

Back: Centre back seam stitched from a mark to the hem, with an opening above it; the opening edges are pressed and topstitched 0.2 cm from the edge.

Closure: A loop made from a 3 cm by 5 cm bias strip, caught into the collar seam, and one button at the back neck.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Front darts and pleats laid to marks, a collar set into a stand with a loop inserted, and a back neck opening.

Fabric Recommendations

Blouse fabrics from natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

Fusible interfacing (one stand piece, two collar pieces)
1 button

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: hem allowance for blouse and sleeve - 2 cm, all other seams - 1 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!

From main fabric:

Back – 2 pieces
Front – 1 piece (cut on fold)
Sleeve – 2 pieces
Collar – 4 pieces
Stand Collar – 2 pieces

From fusible interfacing:

Stand Collar – 1 piece
Collar – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

Fuse interfacing to one Stand Collar piece and two Collar pieces.
Serge the center back edges. Stitch the center back seam from the mark to the bottom. Press seam allowances open, pressing the slit flat. Stitch 0.2 cm along the slit.
Stitch the darts on the front. Press the dart fullness towards the center. Form and secure the pleats on the front.
Stitch the side and shoulder seams, press seam allowances towards the back and serge.
Cut a bias strip 3 cm wide and 5 cm long. Fold the strip in half lengthwise and stitch 0.3 cm from the fold. Trim seam allowances and turn the piece right side out. Adjust the loop length.
Place the Collar pieces in pairs, right sides together, and stitch along the outer edge and corners, inserting the loop. Place the Stand Collar pieces right sides together and stitch, inserting the collars. Trim seam allowances, turn the stand right side out and press. Attach the outer Stand Collar to the blouse neckline, directing the seam allowance towards the stand. Fold under the seam allowance of the inner Stand Collar and topstitch into the attachment seam.
Stitch the sleeve seam, press seam allowances towards the back and serge. Set sleeves into armholes, matching notches. Press and serge seam allowances.
Serge the hem allowance of the blouse and sleeve, fold inwards and topstitch.
Sew on the button at the back neck opposite the loop.