FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: low-stretch knit fabric made of natural or blended fibers, or dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers with added elastane. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: 1 button.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: hem allowance – 2 cm; sleeve hem – 1.2 cm; other allowances - 1.0 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED. WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Back – 1 piece on fold
- Front – 1 piece on fold
- Sleeve — 2 pieces
Tip: Knit fabric pieces are stitched with a special elastic or narrow zigzag stitch. When serging, trim allowances to 0.8 cm. The hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle to maintain elasticity. You can also stitch pieces directly on a 3- or 4-thread overlock machine.
Sewing Instructions
- Stitch darts on the front piece, press the fullness upwards.
- Make a slit on the back along the marked line. Cut a bias strip from the main fabric, 4 cm wide and with a length equal to twice the slit length + 4 cm. Fold the bias strip in half lengthwise and press. Press the outer allowances towards the center. Finish the slit with the bias strip.
- Stitch side and shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and serge.
- Cut a bias strip 3 cm wide and 5 cm long. Fold the strip in half lengthwise and stitch 0.3 cm from the fold. Trim allowances and turn the piece right side out. Adjust the loop length.
- Cut (if not ready-made) a bias strip 4 cm wide and with a length equal to the neckline length + 5 cm. Fold the bias strip in half lengthwise right side out and press. Place the bias strip with the neckline edge right sides together and stitch. Clip allowances. Fold the bias strip to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold to the main piece, inserting the loop. Press the seam.
- Finish the bottom and side edges of the sleeve with an “American” seam or serge with a narrow rolled hem (in this case, the sleeve hem allowance should be trimmed).
- Fold and secure the sleeve at the cap (back part of the sleeve under the front). Set in the sleeves into the armholes, matching notches, press allowances and serge.
- Serge the bottom edge of the garment. Press the allowance to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Sew on the button.
