Long Open Front Vest with Patch Pockets

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: suiting fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. ALSO NEEDED: lining fabric; fusible interlining. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE PATTERNS INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES; IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for coat bottom – 2.5 cm; top edge allowance for pocket 4 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
  • Center back – 2 pieces
  • Side back – 2 pieces
  • Front – 2 pieces
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Pocket – 2 pieces
• From lining fabric:
  • Center back lining – 2 pieces
  • Side back lining – 2 pieces
  • Front lining – 2 pieces
• From fusible interlining:
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

1. Fuse interlining to the designated pieces.
2. Stitch darts on the front, press allowances towards the center.
3. Serge pocket edges. Fold the top allowance inwards and topstitch. Fold the side and bottom allowances inwards and press. Topstitch the pocket according to markings.
4. Stitch darts on the back. Press allowances towards the center. On the left lower back piece, trim 5 cm along the vertical slit edge. On both center back pieces, fuse interlining to the slit from the wrong side. On the right side, mark the center seam line (slit fold line). Press the left part along the slit fold line, on the right part, press only the allowance of the right side of the slit (6 cm) to the wrong side. Align the pieces along the center seam and secure at the top edge of the slit. Serge the center back edge separately on each piece. Serge the slit allowances. Stitch the center back edge up to the slit corner. Clip the slit seam allowance corner on the right part. Press the center seam allowances open, press the slit allowances and secure them on the right side with machine stitching.
5. Stitch the back princess seams. Serge allowances and press towards the center.
6. Stitch side and shoulder seams. Press allowances open. Stitch the collar seam. Press allowance open. Clip the allowance at the shoulder seam and set the collar into the neckline.
7. Stitch shoulder seams of front facings and back neckline facing. Press allowance open. Stitch the collar seam. Press allowance open. Clip the allowance at the shoulder seam and set the collar into the neckline.
8. Serge the hem allowance of the vest.
9. Serge the inner allowance of the front facing from the mark to the bottom. Place the front facing on the right side of the front piece, right sides together, pin, and stitch along the front edge and neckline. Turn the front edges and facing right side out, press seams flat.
10. On the lining pieces, stitch the seams. Serge the bottom edge, fold inwards and topstitch.
11. Attach the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and the back neckline facing. Stitch the armhole in two steps: first the front armhole, then the back armhole.
12. Fold the bottom edge of the vest inwards, press and hem with blind stitches.