Fabric & Materials
FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: knit fabric with low to medium stretch, made from natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: knit fusible interfacing. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES; IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: hem allowance for the garment bottom and sleeve hem – 1.5 cm; drawstring casing perimeter allowance - 0 cm; other seams 0.7 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED.
CUTTER'S MUST
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Back – 1 piece on fold
- Front — 1 piece on fold
- Welt pocket flap - 2 pieces
- Drawstring casing - 1 piece
- Small pocket bag – 2 pieces
- Large pocket bag – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Welt pocket flap – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
Tip: Cut pieces from knit fabrics are stitched with a special elastic or narrow zigzag stitch. The hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle or on a coverstitch machine to maintain elasticity. You can also stitch pieces directly on a 3- or 4-thread overlock machine.
- Reinforce the welt pocket flaps with fusible interfacing.
- Stitch the darts on the front, press the fullness upwards.
- Mark the pocket placement. Press the welt pocket flap in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Topstitch the small pocket bag to the inner side of the flap. Attach the flap to the front along the lower pocket marking line. Attach the large pocket bag to the front along the upper pocket marking line. The ends of the stitching should finish at the short marking lines. Cut the pocket opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the flap and large pocket bag to the wrong side through the opening. Secure the pocket ends from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch the pocket bag edges.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the back and front. Press seams towards the back.
- Stitch the sleeve seam, simultaneously stitching the side seam. Overlock allowances and press towards the back.
- Fold the edges of the drawstring casing inwards by 1 cm, then another 1 cm, and topstitch. Press the longitudinal edges of the drawstring casing to the wrong side by 1 cm. Place the casing on the right side of the front and back according to the markings and topstitch 0.1 cm from the fold.
- Cut a bias binding 4 cm wide and a length equal to the neckline length + 5 cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the binding with the neckline edge, right sides together, and stitch, clip allowances. Fold the binding to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold to the main piece, press.
- Overlock the bottom edge of the garment and the sleeve hem, fold to the wrong side, press and topstitch.
- Cut a tie of the desired length (approximately hip circumference + 30 cm) and 4 cm wide. Press the tie in half lengthwise, right side out. Then unfold and press the longitudinal edges towards the marked center line. Fold the short allowances inwards and stitch the tie lengthwise 0.1 cm from the edge. Thread the tie through the drawstring casing.
