Fitted Denim Fly Front Jeans

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: denim fabric made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; 1 zipper 15 cm long; 1 button. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; pocket upper edge allowance – 2 cm; hem allowance – 4 cm.

CUTTER'S MUST

ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED.

• From main fabric:
  1. Back panel – 2 pieces
  2. Yoke – 2 pieces
  3. Center panel – 2 pieces
  4. Middle panel – 2 pieces
  5. Side panel – 2 pieces
  6. Pocket – 2 pieces
  7. Waistband – 1 piece
  8. Fly facing - 1 piece
  9. Belt loop - 1 piece
• FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: fly facing, waistband.

Sewing Instructions

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

1. Reinforce the fly facing, waistband, vent, and the integrated placket allowance on the front panel with fusible interfacing.
2. Fold the belt loop lengthwise in half, right sides together, align the raw edges and stitch along the long side. Turn right side out, straighten the seam, positioning it in the middle of the wrong side, and press. Topstitch along the long sides with a double decorative stitch at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm. Cut the belt loop piece according to the size.
3. Press the upper edge allowance of the back pocket to the wrong side, fold under and topstitch. Overlock the pocket edges, press the allowances to the wrong side. Place the pocket on the back panel according to the markings and topstitch.
4. Attach the yoke to the back skirt panel, press the allowances towards the yoke and topstitch with a double decorative stitch at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm from the seam.
5. Overlock the allowance of the center back seam, simultaneously overlocking the vent. Stitch the center back seam and the vent with one seam, press the allowances towards the left side seam. Secure the vent allowances with machine stitching.
6. Stitch the middle panel to the center panel, press the allowances towards the center, overlock and topstitch with a double decorative stitch at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm. Stitch the side panel to the middle panel, press the allowances towards the center, overlock and topstitch with a double decorative stitch at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm.
7. Trim the integrated placket allowance on the left front panel, leaving 2 cm. Overlock the center edges of the front panels. Stitch the center edge of the front panel from the "zipper" mark downwards, at the mark, clip the allowance. Press the allowances to the right side, overlock and topstitch with a double decorative stitch at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm from the seam.
8. Press the integrated placket allowance on the right panel to the wrong side along the center front line, and on the left panel – 1 cm from the edge. Overlock the open edges of the fly facing and press it lengthwise in half, right side out. Attach the zipper under the edge of the placket allowance on the left side, close to the edge, positioning the teeth close to the fold and placing the fly facing with the fold towards the center so that the overlocked edge covers the zipper tape. Pin the opening, aligning the center front lines. Attach the free zipper tape to the facing of the right side of the closure, without catching the fabric of the front panel. Topstitch the fly, folding back the fly facing. Finish the stitching 2 – 2.5 cm before the center seam. Then, fold the fly facing back into place and continue stitching to the seam.
9. Stitch the side seams, press the allowances towards the back and overlock.
10. Fold the waistband piece lengthwise in half, right sides together, and stitch the short sides, turn right side out, press. Attach the outer part of the waistband to the upper edge (ease the upper edge), fold the allowance of the inner part inwards and topstitch into the attachment seam. Make a buttonhole, sew on the button.
11. Overlock the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
12. Topstitch the belt loops onto the waistband according to the technical drawing.