Belted Long Sleeve Coat with Collar

Name: Belted Long Sleeve Coat with Collar
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 4613
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #4613

A women's mid-thigh coat with an asymmetric wrap-over front fastened by one large button and three inner buttons, a high wide collar, two-piece set-in sleeves, large patch pockets and a self-fabric tie belt. Fully lined. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: coating fabrics of natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Belted Long Sleeve Coat with Collar

When To Wear

In autumn and spring over dresses, skirts or trousers.
Belted at the waist, or worn with the belt left off.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Slightly flared from the waist, shaped by waist darts and drawn in by the tie belt.

Length: Mid-thigh.

Collar: High, wide collar of upper and under collar, interfaced, standing away from the neck and wrapping over at the front; the under collar is set into the coat neckline and the upper collar into the facing neckline.

Sleeves: Long two-piece set-in sleeves (upper and lower sleeve) with elbow and front seams; the sleeve cap is eased into the armhole.

Closure: Asymmetric wrap-over front; one large button with a buttonhole at the top, and three inner buttons with buttonholes on the right front facing.

Pockets: Large patch pockets with an angled opening, the opening turned in 2.5 cm and topstitched; each pocket is topstitched to the front on three sides.

Waist: Waist darts on the fronts, pressed downwards; separate tie belt, folded lengthwise, stitched and turned through an opening.

Finishing: Interfaced centre front facings and back neckline facing; coat hem allowance 3 cm.

Lining: Full lining with lined sleeves, cut minus the facing width and bagged out through an opening in the left sleeve lining seam.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. Two-piece set-in sleeves with an eased cap, a collar set between coat and facing, a bagged full lining and an asymmetric wrap-over front with inner buttons.

Fabric Recommendations

Coating fabrics of natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

Lining fabric
Fusible interfacing (collar, centre front facings, back neckline facing)
1 large button
3 inner buttons

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm; pocket opening hem allowance – 2.5 cm; coat hem allowance – 3 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!

From main fabric:

Back – 1 piece on fold
Front – 2 pieces
Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
Collar – 2 pieces
Pocket – 2 pieces
Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
Waistband (tie belt) – 1 piece

From lining fabric:

Back – 1 piece on fold
Front – 2 pieces
Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces

From fusible interfacing:

Collar – 1 piece
Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece

Attention! Lining pieces are cut minus the width of the Center Front Facing and the Back Neckline Facing.

Sewing Instructions

Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
Stitch the darts on the Front, press the darts downwards.
Overlock the pocket piece along the contour. Fold the pocket opening allowance to the wrong side and topstitch. Press the remaining allowances inwards. Place the Pocket on the Front at the marks and topstitch along three sides.
Stitch side and shoulder seams. Press allowances open.
Make the inner buttonholes on the right Center Front Facing. Stitch the shoulder seams joining the Center Front Facings and the Back Neckline Facing. Press allowance open.
Place the upper collar on the lower collar, right sides together, and stitch along the outer edge. Start and end the stitching strictly at the marked collar attachment seam line. Turn the collar right side out, shape, and press.
Place the Center Front Facing on the Front, right sides together, pin, and stitch along the front edge. Turn the facings to the inside and straighten the seams.
Stitch the under collar to the coat neckline, and the upper collar to the neckline of the Back Neckline Facing and the Center Front Facings. Press the collar attachment seam allowances open and secure close to the seams.
Stitch the elbow and front seams joining the Upper Sleeve and Lower Sleeve, press open. Set the sleeves into the armholes according to notches, easing the sleeve cap.
On the lining fabric pieces, stitch seams and attach sleeves, leaving an opening in the front left sleeve seam.
Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the Center Front Facings and the Back Neckline Facing.
Stitch the lining to the hem of the coat and of the sleeves. Turn the coat right side out through the opening. Close the opening.
Fold the Waistband (tie belt) in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch, leaving an opening. Trim allowances at corners, turn the belt right side out, and press. Close the opening.
Make the top buttonhole. Sew on the buttons at the marks.