Dress with Pleated Neckline and Ruched Skirt

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers with elastane. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: a concealed zipper; fusible interfacing.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for the dress bottom – 2.5 cm; hem allowance for the sleeve bottom – 1.2 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical details).

• From main fabric:
  • Upper back part - 2 pieces
  • Lower back part – 2 pieces
  • Upper front part - 1 piece
  • Lower front part – 1 piece
  • Sleeve — 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
  • Front neckline facing – 1 piece
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Front neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Back neckline facing – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH! Note: Markings on patterns are made on the right side.

1. Interface the facing pieces.
2. Stitch darts on back pieces. Press seam allowances towards the center. Stitch upper and lower back pieces. Overlock and press seam allowances upwards. Overlock center back seam allowances separately. Stitch seam allowances from zipper mark downwards. Press seam allowances open, pressing the zipper opening. Insert the zipper.
3. On the lower front part, lay and secure pleats. On the upper front part, lay and secure pleats (depths directed away from the center). Stitch upper and lower front parts. Overlock and press seam allowance upwards.
4. Stitch side and shoulder seams, press seam allowances towards the back and overlock.
5. Stitch shoulder seams of facings, press seam allowances open. Overlock outer edge. Place dress and facings right sides together, aligning neckline edges. Stitch neckline edge. Attach facing to shoulder seams and zipper tape.
6. Overlock the lower edge of the sleeve, press to the wrong side and topstitch. Set sleeves into armholes, matching notches. Overlock seam allowances.
7. Cut a bias binding strip 4 cm wide and a length equal to the length of the lower armhole + 6 cm. Fold the bias binding strip in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the binding strip on the armhole edge, right side of fabric, extending tails, and stitch. Fold the binding strip to the wrong side, clip seams, and topstitch along the fold onto the main piece. Press the seam.
8. Overlock the hem allowance of the dress bottom, press to the wrong side and topstitch.