Collared Blouse with Concealed Closure
Discover a women's blouse pattern featuring soft pleats at the front neckline, a rounded collar on a stand, a concealed button placket, and long sleeves with pleated caps and buttoned cuffs.
When To Wear
This versatile blouse is perfect for a range of occasions, offering both comfort and polished style, making it an excellent choice for:
- Business Casual: Pairs beautifully with tailored trousers or skirts for a professional office look.
- Smart Everyday Wear: Elevates jeans or casual pants for a chic, put-together daytime outfit.
- Layering & Transition: Ideal for layering under blazers or cardigans, suitable for changing seasons.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Shaped and fitted through the torso with princess seams, offering a flattering and comfortable fit.
Neckline & Collar: a classic collar with rounded ends attached to a stand, fastened with one button at the stand.
Front Detail: Stitched pleats at the front neckline provide subtle fullness at the bust, transitioning into princess seams for a tailored fit.
Closure: a concealed button placket on the right front hides the buttonholes; buttons are sewn on the left front, which has a stitched-down placket.
Sleeves: Long sleeves with a box pleat and two further pleats at the sleeve cap, a bias-bound sleeve opening and buttoned cuffs.
Back Detail: The back features shoulder darts, princess seams and a center back seam for a tailored and flattering silhouette.
Hem: a straight hemline designed to be tucked in or worn out.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. This pattern involves skills such as collar and stand assembly, concealed placket construction, bound sleeve openings, cuff attachment, and precise shaping seams.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose lightweight to medium-weight woven fabrics with a good drape for blouses, from natural or blended fibers:
- Blouse fabrics made from natural or blended fibers
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- 9 buttons
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for the bottom of the blouse – 1.5 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Left Front – 1 piece
- Right Front – 1 piece
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Stand Collar – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Collar – 1 piece
- Stand Collar – 1 piece
- Cuff – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the cut-on plackets of the fronts, the upper Collar, the inner Stand Collar, and the Cuffs.
- Place the upper Collar on the under Collar, right sides together. Stitch the ends and the outer edge of the collar. Trim the seam allowances. Turn the collar right side out, ease out the edges and press. Place the Stand Collar pieces right sides together, insert the finished collar between them, match the notches, and stitch, stitching the ends of the stand at the same time. Start and end the stitching exactly at the marked line of the stand attachment seam. Turn the stand right side out and press.
- Stitch the darts on the back, press the dart allowances towards the center. Stitch the back princess seams (Center Back to Side Back), press the seam allowances towards the center and overlock. Stitch the center back seam, press the seam allowance to the left and overlock.
- Lay the pleats at the front neckline and stitch them from the upper edge to the end of the marking; press the pleat allowances away from the center. Stitch the front princess seams (Right Front / Left Front to Side Front), press the seam allowances towards the center and overlock.
- Right Front: Press the front edge to the wrong side along the lines "front edge" and "concealed placket edge". Topstitch along the inner edge of the placket 3 cm from the front edge. Fold the inner part of the placket back towards the front edge. Press and make the buttonholes. Left Front: Fold the placket to the wrong side first by 1 cm, then by another 3 cm, and topstitch along the inner edge of the placket.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams, press the seam allowances towards the back and overlock.
- Stitch the outer layer of the Stand Collar (with the collar) to the neckline, fold under the open edge of the inner stand and topstitch it into the attachment seam.
- Cut the sleeve opening along the marked line. Cut a bias strip from the main fabric 4 cm wide and twice the length of the opening + 4 cm long. Fold the bias strip in half lengthwise and press. Press the long edges towards the center fold. Bind the sleeve opening with the bias strip.
- Stitch the Sleeve seam, press the seam allowance towards the back and overlock. Lay a box pleat at the top of the sleeve cap and two pleats on the front and back parts of the cap.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, press the seam allowances and overlock.
- Fold the Cuff in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the short ends and the extension. Start the stitching exactly at the marked line of the cuff attachment seam. Clip the seam allowances at the mark, turn the cuff right side out, and press. Stitch the outer side of the cuff to the lower edge of the sleeve. Fold under the inner side of the cuff and topstitch it into the attachment seam.
- Overlock the hem allowance of the blouse, press to the wrong side, and topstitch.
- Make a buttonhole on the Stand Collar and buttonholes on the Cuffs. Sew buttons onto the Left Front to match the buttonholes. Sew buttons onto the Cuffs.
