Collared Button-Front Shirt With Sleeve Tabs

Fabric & Materials

FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: blouse fabrics made of natural or blended fibers, shirting fabrics. ALSO NEEDED: fusible interfacing; elastic thread; 4 buttons.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Seam allowance for the upper edge of the pocket – 2 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment – 1.5 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to consider paired and symmetrical details).

• From main fabric:
  • Back yoke – 1 piece
  • Back – 1 piece on fold
  • Front – 1 piece on fold
  • Placket – 4 pieces
  • Sleeve - 2 pieces
  • Collar stand – 2 pieces
  • Sleeve tab – 2 pieces
  • Pocket – 1 piece
• FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING:
  • Placket – 2 pieces
  • Collar stand – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

1. Fuse interfacing to the plackets and the outer collar stand.
2. Form and secure the box pleat on the back piece. Stitch the yoke to the back, press seam allowances upwards and overcast.
3. Fold plackets in pairs right sides together and stitch: the left placket along the outer edge to the bottom (to the beginning of the corner), the right placket – along the outer edge and corner to the notch. On the right placket, clip the seam allowance at the notch. Turn out and press the pieces. On the front, clip the seam allowance for the placket at the corners, stopping 1 mm before the seam line. Stitch the outer parts of the plackets to the front. Turn the left placket to the right side, tucking the bottom allowance inwards. Turn the right placket to the right side, straightening the bottom corner from the right side. Fold the allowances of the inner plackets inwards. Topstitch along the plackets, simultaneously stitching the inner edge. Secure the bottom corner of the right placket from the right side.
4. Overcast the upper allowance of the pocket, press to the wrong side and topstitch. Press the side and bottom allowances of the pocket to the wrong side. Place the pocket on the left front according to the markings and topstitch.
5. Along the shoulder edges of the front, stitch with a loosened thread and gather. Stitch the shoulder seams of the blouse, press seam allowances upwards and overcast. Along the stitching seam, from the front side, make two decorative – securing stitches with elastic thread, 0.5 cm wide.
6. Fold the collar stand pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer edge, starting and ending the stitch exactly at the collar stand attachment line. Turn the collar stand to the right side, press.
7. Stitch the outer collar stand to the neckline, turn under the open edge of the inner collar stand and topstitch into the attachment seam.
8. Stitch the side seams, press seam allowances towards the back and overcast.
9. Stitch the sleeve into a loop, press seam allowances open. Fold the sleeve lengthwise in the middle right side out and stitch into the armhole, aligning it with the wrong side of the garment. Overcast the allowances, turn the sleeve to the right side, press.
10. Fold the tabs lengthwise in the middle right sides together and stitch along the long and short edges. Turn to the right side, trimming allowances at the corners, straighten and press. Overcast the open short edge. Topstitch the tabs into the sleeve attachment seam at the shoulder from the wrong side.
11. Overcast the bottom of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
12. On the tabs and the right placket, make buttonholes. Sew buttons on the left placket and on the shoulder seams.