Fitted Collared Long Sleeve Blazer

Cutter's Must

If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included. If the contour is single, seam allowances are not included. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for sleeve hem - 3.0 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!

• From main fabric:
  • Center back – 2 pieces
  • Side back – 2 pieces
  • Side front – 2 pieces
  • Center front – 2 pieces
  • Lower back – 1 piece
  • Lower front – 2 pieces
  • Collar – 4 pieces
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
• From lining fabric:
  • Center front – 2 pieces
  • Side front - 2 pieces
  • Center back – 2 pieces
  • Side back – 2 pieces
  • Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Lower back – 1 piece
  • Lower front – 2 pieces

  Attention: Front and back lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric patterns, subtracting the width of the front facings and back neckline facing, respectively.

• From fusible interfacing:
  • Center front – 2 pieces
  • Collar 2 pieces
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces, as well as the hem of the garment and sleeve hems.
2. On the back, stitch and press darts towards the center. Stitch and press open back princess seams. Stitch and press open center back seam. Attach the lower back to the back.
3. Stitch and press open front princess seams. On the lower front, create and secure the pleat. Attach the lower front to the front.
4. Stitch and press open shoulder and side seams of the jacket.
5. Fold collar pieces in pairs right sides together and stitch center seams. Press seams open. Fold collar pieces right sides together and stitch the ends and outer edge. Trim seam allowances at corners, clip curves. Turn collar right side out, shape, and press. Attach collar to neckline and front edges.
6. Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve.
7. Set sleeves into armholes, matching notches and easing the sleeve cap. Insert shoulder pads and sleeve head rolls.
8. Stitch and press open shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facings. Stitch and press open side seams of the inner lower back and front pieces. On the lining fabric pieces, stitch seams and set sleeves, leaving an opening in the front left sleeve seam. Attach the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and back neckline facing. Attach the lower back to the lining. On the lower front lining, create a pleat, similar to the main fabric.
9. Sew the decorative fastener into the seam joining the upper and lower front parts.
10. Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin, and stitch all around the front edge, neckline, and bottom of the garment. Trim seams at corners, clip curves. Turn the jacket right side out, shape seams, press.
11. Attach the lining to the sleeve hem. Stitch a securing line under the collar, topstitching the main garment to the front facing. Secure the jacket to the lining along the attachment line of the lower parts. Stitch the opening in the sleeve closed.