Fabric & Materials
FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: thin dress or blouse fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: 9 buttons; fusible interfacing; elastic tape.
CUTTER'S MUST
SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance – 1.2 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). WHEN STITCHING DETAILS, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Upper back part – 1 piece
- Lower back part – 1 piece
- Upper front part - 2 pieces
- Lower front part – 1 piece
- Collar stand – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Sleeve - 2 pieces
- Tab - 2 pieces
- From FUSIBLE INTERFACING:
- Collar stand – 1 piece
- Collar – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the collar stand, collar, and the integrated placket on the upper front part.
- Place the upper collar on the lower collar, right sides together, and stitch the ends and the outer edge. Trim seam allowances at corners, turn the collar right side out, shape, and press. Place collar stand pieces right sides together, insert the finished collar between them, align notches, and stitch, simultaneously stitching the ends of the stand. Start and end the stitching strictly at the marked seam line for attaching the stand. Turn the finished collar right side out and press.
- Right upper front: Press the front inward to the wrong side along the “edge of placket” and “edge of concealed placket” lines. Stitch a topstitch along the inner edge of the placket at a distance of 3 cm from the edge of the placket. Fold the inner part of the placket towards the placket, press. Overcast buttonholes on the inner part. Left front: Trim the front along the “inner edge of placket” line + 1cm. Fold the placket inward first by 1 cm, then by another 3 cm, and stitch a topstitch along the inner edge of the placket. Overlap the right front over the left and continue to treat as one piece.
- Stitch the upper and lower back and front parts, press seam allowances upwards and overcast.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams, press seam allowances towards the back and overcast.
- Stitch the outer collar stand to the neckline, fold the raw edge of the inner collar stand and topstitch into the attachment seam.
- Stitch the sleeve into a loop, press seam allowances open. Fold the sleeve in half lengthwise, right side out, and stitch into the armhole, aligning it with the wrong side of the garment. Overcast seam allowances, fold the sleeve to the right side, press.
- Fold the tabs in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch along the long and short edges. Turn right side out, trimming seam allowances at corners, shape, and press. Overcast the open short edge. Topstitch the tabs into the sleeve attachment seam at the shoulder from the wrong side.
- Overcast the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side, and topstitch.
- Cut a piece of elastic tape equal to the waist circumference and topstitch it, stretching, to the seam allowance of the upper and lower parts on the wrong side.
- Overcast buttonholes on the tabs and collar stand. Sew buttons on the left front, collar stand, and shoulder seams. TIP: The tunic is recommended to be worn with a decorative belt.
