Fabric & Materials
FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; zipper; 2 buttons; bias tape in a contrasting color (approximate length indicated on the front pattern piece).
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: hem allowance for the garment and sleeve hem – 1.5 cm, allowance for the bridge and bow edges – 0 cm, other allowances - 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED.
- From main fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back - 2 pieces
- Center front – 1 piece
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Lower back – 1 piece on fold
- Lower front – 1 piece on fold
- Back sleeve – 2 pieces
- Front sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 4 pieces
- Front neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Bow – 1 piece
- Bridge – 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Front neckline facing – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- Fuse interfacing to the back and front neckline facings.
- Stitch the back princess seams, press allowances towards the center and overcast. Stitch the front princess seams, press allowances towards the center and overcast. Form and secure pleats on the center front (pleat depths directed away from the center).
- Attach the back sleeve to the back, press allowances towards the sleeve, overcast. Attach the front sleeve to the front, press allowances towards the sleeve, overcast. Stitch the upper sleeve seams, press allowances towards the back and overcast.
- Press open the ready-made bias tape, then press it in half lengthwise, right side out, and baste it to the neckline edge so that the tape extends 1 cm beyond the marked facing attachment line.
- Cut a bias strip 4 cm wide and a length equal to the back opening length + 4 cm. Fold the bias strip in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the bias strip with the opening edge right sides together, extending the ends, and stitch. Fold the bias strip to the wrong side, clip allowances, and topstitch along the fold to the main piece. Press the seam.
- Stitch the center back seam, press allowances to the left side and overcast.
- Cut a bias strip 2.5 cm wide and 10 cm long. Fold the strip in half lengthwise, right side in, and stitch 0.3 cm from the fold. Trim allowances close to the stitching, turn the strip right side out and straighten the rouleau. Cut loops. The length of one loop is approximately 4 cm.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the outer and inner neckline facings, press allowances open. Place facings right sides together and stitch the neckline edge and ends up to the mark, inserting loops on the right side. Clip allowances at curves, turn facing right side out, press. Attach the outer facing to the neckline edge, press allowances towards the facing. Press the lower edge of the inner facing to the wrong side and topstitch in the seam of the outer facing attachment.
- On the lower pieces, form and secure inverted pleats. Attach the lower pieces to the back and front, press allowances upwards and overcast.
- Stitch the right side seam simultaneously with the lower sleeve seam, press allowances towards the back and overcast. Overcast the left side edges separately on each piece, stitch the right side seam from the top to the mark and from the lower piece attachment seam to the bottom. Press allowances open, insert the zipper.
- Overcast the bottom edge of the dress and the sleeve hem, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Bind the long edges of the bow and bridge with bias tape, overcast the short sides. Attach the bridge to the front neckline facing on the left side. Fold the bow, insert it into the bridge, and secure. Tip: The dress is recommended to be worn with a decorative belt in the color of the binding.
