Pattern

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
1. BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
2. FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
3. COLLAR stand – 2 QTY
4. Upper SLEEVE – 2 QTY
5. Lower SLEEVE – 2 QTY
6. BACK neckline FACING – 1 QTY
7. Front facing – 2 QTY
• From LINING fabric:
1. BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
2. FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
3. Upper SLEEVE – 2 QTY
4. Lower SLEEVE – 2 QTY
5. Fly fastening LINING – 2 QTY
• ATTENTION: The BACK PANEL and FRONT PANEL LINING pieces are cut according to the main pattern pieces, subtracting the BACK neckline FACING and front facing respectively.
• From FUSIBLE INTERFACING:
1. FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
2. Front facing — 2 QTY
3. COLLAR stand – 1 QTY
4. BACK neckline FACING — 1 QTY
5. Fly fastening LINING – 1 QTY
• Also, the BACK armhole SEAM ALLOWANCES, garment hem, and SLEEVE hem are interfaced.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the designated pieces.
2. Stitch the darts on the BACK PANEL, press the fullness towards the center. On the wrong side of the BACK PANEL pieces, interface the vent. On the right side, mark the center seam line (the vent fold line). Press the left BACK PANEL along the vent fold line. Align the pieces along the center seam. Stitch the center seam of the BACK PANEL and the vent corner, stopping 1 cm before the vertical vent edge. Clip the vent SEAM ALLOWANCE corner on the right piece. Press the center seam allowances open, press the vent allowances and secure them on the right side with machine stitching.
3. Stitch the darts on the FRONT PANEL, clip the SEAM ALLOWANCES at the curves and press them open.
4. Attach the outer COLLAR stand to the BACK neckline, clip the SEAM ALLOWANCES and press them open.
5. Stitch the shoulder seams of the coat simultaneously with the COLLAR stand seam, clip the SEAM ALLOWANCES and press them open. Stitch the side seams, press the SEAM ALLOWANCES open.
6. Mark the fly fastening slit on the right front facing with three lines: the first line is parallel to the front edge and is 1.5 cm from the finished front edge; the second and third lines define the length of the fastening. Place the interfaced LINING on the right side of the front facing, right side down, moving from the front edge, aligning the LINING edge and the marked line. Stitch 0.5 cm from the marked line along the fastening slit up to the lines defining the fastening length. Place the second fastening LINING flush with the stitching of the first LINING and stitch 0.5 cm away. Check the correctness of the LINING attachment from the wrong side (the stitches should be parallel). Cut the opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the fastening slit. Turn the LINING through the created opening to the wrong side, forming a frame from the interfaced LINING equal to the width between the stitches. Stitch a securing stitch into the LINING attachment seam. Press the second LINING towards the inner edge of the front facing and stitch a securing stitch 0.1 cm from the LINING attachment seam. Mark and overcast the buttonholes. Buttonholes are made on the front facing together with the interfaced LINING. Straighten and secure the ends of the fastening from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch the LINING edges. Place bar tacks between each pair of buttonholes, the length of the bar tack is equal to the width of the frame. Press the front facing.
7. Attach the inner COLLAR stand to the FACING neckline, clip the SEAM ALLOWANCES and press them open. Stitch the shoulder seams of the front facings and FACING, simultaneously with the COLLAR stand seam, press the SEAM ALLOWANCES open.
8. Press up the hem allowance. Place the front facing on the right side of the FRONT PANEL, right side down, and stitch the front edges and the COLLAR stand edge. Stitch the corner of the front edge, stopping 1.5 cm before the inner edge of the front facing. Trim the SEAM ALLOWANCES at the corners, turn the front edges and COLLAR stand to the right side, and straighten the seams.
9. Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the SLEEVE. Press up the SLEEVE hem. Stitch and press open the front seam of the SLEEVE. Set the SLEEVE into the armhole. Attach the shoulder pads.
10. On the LINING fabric pieces, stitch the seams, leaving an opening in the left side seam for subsequent turning. Attach the SLEEVES. Attach the LINING to the front facings and FACING.
11. Attach the LINING to the garment hem, vent, and SLEEVE hem. Turn the coat through the opening. Close the opening.
12. Stitch a topstitch on the right FRONT PANEL according to the markings, securing the fly fastening. Sew on buttons corresponding to the buttonholes.