Collarless 3/4 Sleeve Princess Seam Coat

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
1. BACK PANEL center – 2 QTY
2. BACK PANEL side – 2 QTY
3. FRONT PANEL center – 2 QTY
4. FRONT PANEL side – 2 QTY
5. SLEEVE upper part – 2 QTY
6. SLEEVE lower part – 2 QTY
7. BACK PANEL neckline FACING – 2 QTY
8. Front facing – 2 QTY
• From LINING fabric:
1. BACK PANEL center – 2 QTY
2. FRONT PANEL center – 2 QTY
3. BACK PANEL side – 2 QTY
4. FRONT PANEL side – 2 QTY
5. SLEEVE upper part – 2 QTY
6. SLEEVE lower part – 2 QTY
7. Pocket bag — 4 QTY
• From FUSIBLE INTERFACING:
1. FRONT PANEL center — 2 QTY
2. Front facing — 2 QTY
3. BACK PANEL neckline FACING — 2 QTY

Also, interface the armhole areas on the BACK PANEL, pocket opening, BACK PANEL and SLEEVE vents, and the garment hem.

Sewing Instructions

1. Interface the pattern pieces with FUSIBLE INTERFACING.
2. On the BACK PANEL, stitch the darts, press the fullness towards the center. Stitch the BACK PANEL princess SEAM ALLOWANCES, press the SEAM ALLOWANCES open. On the wrong side of the BACK PANEL pieces, interface the vent. On the right side, mark the center seam line (vent fold line). Press the left BACK PANEL along the vent fold line. Align the pieces along the center seam. Stitch the center BACK PANEL seam and the vent corner, stopping 1 cm before the vertical vent edge. Clip the vent SEAM ALLOWANCE corner on the right part. Press the center seam SEAM ALLOWANCES open, press the vent SEAM ALLOWANCES and secure them on the right side with machine stitching.
3. On the FRONT PANEL, stitch the darts, press the fullness downwards. Attach the pocket bag to the center FRONT PANEL and side FRONT PANEL. On the FRONT PANEL, stitch the princess SEAM ALLOWANCES, simultaneously stitching the pocket bag. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCES open, clipping the corner on the side FRONT PANEL. Press the pocket towards the center.
4. Stitch the shoulder and side SEAM ALLOWANCES, press the SEAM ALLOWANCES open.
5. Stitch and press the elbow seam of the SLEEVE towards the upper part. Finish the SLEEVE vent. Stitch and press the front SLEEVE seam open. Along the upper edge of the SLEEVE cap, stitch with a small stitch length. Gather and ease the SLEEVE cap. Set the SLEEVES into the armhole, matching the NOTCHES. Insert shoulder pads and SLEEVE head rolls.
6. Stitch the shoulder SEAM ALLOWANCES of the front facings and FACING, press the SEAM ALLOWANCES open.
7. Press up the garment hem. Place the front facing on the right side of the FRONT PANEL, right side down. Pin the front facing and the top of the garment and stitch along the front edge and neckline. Attach the lower edge of the front facing to the FRONT PANEL strictly along the marked hemline, stopping 1.5 cm before the inner edge of the front facing. Turn the front edges to the right side, straighten the seams.
8. On the LINING fabric pattern pieces, stitch the seams, leaving an opening in the left side seam for turning. Set in the SLEEVES. Attach the LINING to the front facings and FACING. Attach the LINING to the hem of the garment. Turn the coat through the opening. Close the opening.
9. On the right FRONT PANEL, make buttonholes; on the left FRONT PANEL, sew on buttons. Sew buttons to the SLEEVE vent.