Tailored Collarless Coat with Mock Flap Pockets
Introducing a made-to-measure sewing pattern for a sleek, collarless lined coat featuring tailored construction, a concealed front fastening, and mock flap pockets.
When To Wear
This versatile tailored coat is perfect for adding sophistication to various outfits, making it ideal for:
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Professional Settings: Elevates office attire with its polished design and structured silhouette.
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Smart Casual Layering: a chic outerwear piece for everyday elegance, effortlessly complementing various ensembles.
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Transitional Seasons: Provides warmth and style as a lightweight coat during cooler months.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Gently shaped through the waist, falling in a straight line to knee length.
Neckline: High, collarless round neckline for a clean, minimalist aesthetic.
Closure: edge-to-edge fronts with a concealed fastener inserted into the front edge seam, for a smooth, uninterrupted appearance.
Sleeves: Long, tailored two-piece set-in sleeves for a structured arm line.
Pockets: No functional pockets; mock flaps are stitched on at the hip.
Waist: a horizontal waist seam on the front and a horizontal seam above the waist on the back; the front also has a curved, topstitched yoke seam across the chest.
Seaming: waist darts on the front and back and a center back seam contribute to a contoured fit.
Hem: Straight hem.
Lining: fully lined.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Requires experience with lining construction, setting in tailored two-piece sleeves, working with fusible interfacing, and creating flaps.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose medium-weight suiting fabrics with good drape and body:
- Suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibers
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Concealed fastener
- Shoulder pads
- Fusible interfacing
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Upper Back – 2 pieces
- Lower Back – 2 pieces
- Upper Front – 2 pieces
- Middle Front – 2 pieces
- Lower Front – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Flap – 4 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Cut from the main pattern pieces, minus the Back Neckline Facing and Center Front Facing
- From fusible interfacing:
- Flap – 2 pieces (upper flaps)
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 2 pieces
- Strips for the hem of the coat and the sleeve hems
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the upper Flap pieces, Center Front Facing, Back Neckline Facing and the hems of the coat and sleeves.
- On the back pieces, stitch the darts, press the dart depths towards the center. Stitch the Upper Back and Lower Back together, serge the seam allowances and press them downwards. Stitch the center back seam. Serge the seam allowances and press them open.
- On the front pieces, stitch the darts, press the dart depths towards the center. Stitch the Lower Front and Middle Front together. Serge the seam allowances and press them downwards. Stitch the Upper Front to the Middle Front. Serge the seam allowance and press it upwards. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Place the Flap pieces together in pairs, right sides facing, and stitch along three sides. Trim the seam allowances at the corners, turn right side out, and press. Serge the upper edge. Place the flap right side down along the placement line, with the raw edge towards the hem, and stitch. Turn the flap downwards and stitch a securing line 0.5 cm from the attachment seam.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams, press the seam allowances open and serge.
- Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve. Serge the seam allowance and press it open. Stitch the front seam of the sleeve. Serge the seam allowances and press them open. Serge the lower edge of the sleeve. Fold the seam allowance inwards and press. Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches. Insert shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the Center Front Facings and Back Neckline Facing, press the seam allowances open. Serge the pieces along the outer edge.
- Place the facings on the coat right sides together, align the edges and pin. Stitch along the front edges and neckline, inserting the concealed fastener. Trim the seam allowances at the corners. Turn the facings to the wrong side and attach it to the shoulder and center seams by hand.
- Press the hems of the coat and sleeves to the wrong side and hem with blind stitches.
