Tailored Jacket with Mock Flap Pockets
Introducing a made-to-measure sewing pattern for a sleek, collarless jacket featuring tailored construction, a concealed front fastening, and mock flap pockets.
When To Wear
This versatile tailored jacket is perfect for adding sophistication to various outfits, making it ideal for:
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Professional Settings: Elevates office attire with its polished design and structured silhouette.
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Smart Casual Layering: a chic outerwear piece for everyday elegance, effortlessly complementing various ensembles.
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Transitional Seasons: Provides warmth and style as a lightweight coat during cooler months.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Gently shaped through the waist, falling in a straight line to a mid-thigh length.
Neckline: High, collarless round neckline for a clean, minimalist aesthetic.
Closure: Concealed front fastening for a smooth, uninterrupted appearance.
Sleeves: Long, tailored two-piece set-in sleeves for a structured arm line.
Pockets: No functional pocket. Instead, there are mock flap pockets positioned at the hip.
Waist: Defined by a horizontal seam, offering subtle shaping.
Seaming: Vertical waist darts on both front and back panels contribute to a contoured fit.
Hem: Straight hem.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Requires experience with lining construction, setting in tailored two-piece sleeves, working with fusible interfacing, and creating flaps.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose medium-weight suiting fabrics with good drape and body:
- Suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibers
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Concealed fastener
- Shoulder pads
- Fusible interfacing
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- 1. Upper back – 2 pieces
- 2. Lower back – 2 pieces
- 3. Upper front – 2 pieces
- 4. Middle front – 2 pieces
- 5. Lower front — 2 pieces
- 6. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- 7. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- 8. Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
- 9. Front facing – 2 pieces
- 10. Flap — 4 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- 1. Upper flap — 2 pieces
- 2. Front facing — 2 pieces
- 3. Back neckline facing — 2 pieces
- Also, the bottom of the garment and sleeves are interfaced.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse fusible interfacing to the pattern pieces.
- On the back pieces, stitch the darts, press the dart allowances towards the center. Stitch the upper and lower back PANELs together, serge the seam allowances and press them downwards. Stitch the center back seam. Serge the seam allowances and press them open.
- On the front pieces, stitch the darts, press the dart allowances towards the center. Stitch the lower and middle parts together. Serge the seam allowances and press them downwards. Attach the upper front to the middle one. Serge the seam allowance and press it upwards. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Fold the flap pieces in pairs, right sides together, and stitch along three sides. Trim the seam allowances at the corners, turn right side out, and press. Serge the upper edge. Place the flap right side down onto the attachment line and topstitch. Turn the flap downwards and stitch a securing line 0.5 cm from the attachment seam.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams, press the seam allowances open and serge.
- Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve. Serge the seam allowance and press it open. Stitch the front seam of the sleeve. Serge the seam allowances and press them open. Serge the lower edge of the sleeve. Fold the seam allowance inwards and press. Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches. Insert shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the front facings and facing, press the seam allowances open. Serge the pieces along the outer edge.
- Place the front facing and facing onto the coat, align the edges and pin. Stitch along the front edge and neckline, inserting the fastener. Trim the seam allowances at the corners. Turn the front facing to the wrong side and attach it to the shoulder and center seams by hand.
- Press the bottom of the garment and sleeves to the wrong side and hem with blind stitches.
