Fitted Dress With Contrasting Yoke And Sleeves

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers; contrasting fabric for trim. ALSO NEEDED: fusible interfacing; concealed zipper. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for dress bottom – 1.5 cm; sleeve hem allowance — 0 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
  • Upper center back part - 2 pieces
  • Upper side back part – 2 pieces
  • Lower back part – 2 pieces
  • Upper center front part - 1 piece
  • Upper side front part – 2 pieces
  • Lower front part - 1 piece on fold
  • Back sleeve part — 2 pieces
  • Front sleeve part — 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing - 2 pieces
• From contrasting fabric:
  • Front yoke – 2 pieces
  • Back trim – 1 piece on fold
  • Front trim – 1 piece on fold
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Front yoke — 1 piece
  • Back neckline facing - 2 pieces.

Sewing Instructions

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH! MARKINGS ON PATTERNS ARE ON THE RIGHT SIDE!

1. Interface pieces with fusible interfacing.
2. Stitch the princess seams of the upper back parts. Overlock allowances and press towards the center. Stitch the upper and lower back parts. Overlock allowance and press downwards. Overlock the center back seams separately. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the bottom edge, press allowances open. Insert the concealed zipper. Stitch the back trim to the back, press allowances upwards and overlock.
3. Fold the front yoke pieces right sides together and stitch the neckline and keyhole opening. Clip allowances at curves, trim at corners. Turn pieces right side out, smooth, press, secure along edges, and then treat as one piece.
4. Stitch the princess seams of the front. Overlock allowances and press towards the center. Stitch the yoke to the front, press allowances downwards and overlock. Stitch the upper and lower front parts, press allowances upwards and overlock. Stitch the front trim to the front, press allowances upwards and overlock.
5. Overlock the outer edges of the neckline facings. Place the back neckline facing with the back, insert the front between them, align edges and stitch the shoulder seam. Press allowances, overlock. Turn the facing to the wrong side, secure the center edges with the zipper tape.
6. Stitch the side seams, press allowances towards the back, overlock.
7. Stitch the sleeve seam, press allowances and overlock. Bind the lower edge of the sleeve in one step. Place the front sleeve part on the back, aligning marks, and secure along the upper edge. Set sleeves into armholes, press allowances and overlock.
8. Overlock the bottom edge of the dress, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
9. Cut a belt from contrasting fabric, 22 cm wide and a length equal to double the waist circumference + 1 m. Fold the belt in half lengthwise right sides together and stitch along the contour, leaving an opening for turning. Trim allowances at corners, turn the belt right side out. Close the opening.