Cutting Plan
- From knit fabric:
- 1. Back – 2 pieces
- 2. Front – 1 piece on fold
- 3. Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From dress fabric:
- 1. Collar – 2 pieces
- 2. Lapel – 4 pieces
- 3. Cuff – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- 1. Collar – 1 piece
- 2. Lapel – 2 pieces
- 3. Cuff – 2 pieces
Tip: Pattern pieces made from knit fabrics should be stitched with a special elastic or narrow zigzag stitch. When serging, trim seam allowances to 0.8 cm. The hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle to maintain elasticity. Alternatively, pieces can be stitched directly on a 3- or 4-thread overlocker.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch the center back seam, press seam allowances to the left side and finish (serge/overlock).
- Stitch the bust darts, trim excess fabric with an overlocker.
- Stitch the shoulder seams, press seam allowances towards the back and finish (serge/overlock).
- Place collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Clip seam allowances at curves/notches, turn the collar right side out, press. Place lapel pieces right sides together, insert the collar between them, and stitch along the roll line, simultaneously stitching the outer edge of the lapel. Turn the lapel right side out, shape, and press.
- Attach the collar with lapels to the neckline, finish seam allowances. Topstitch the seam allowances to the main garment with a 0.5 cm seam.
- Set the sleeve into the open armhole, press seam allowances and finish (serge/overlock).
- Stitch the sleeve seams simultaneously with the side seams, press seam allowances towards the back and finish (serge/overlock).
- Fold the cuff in half lengthwise right sides together and stitch the short sides. Turn the cuff right side out, shape, and press.
- Overlap the cuff ends, aligning marks. Attach the cuff to the lower edge of the sleeve, press seam allowances towards the sleeve, finish (serge/overlock). Topstitch the seam allowances to the main garment with a 0.5 cm seam.
- Finish (serge/overlock) the garment hem, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
