Tailored Stand Collar Coat
A sophisticated women's coat pattern featuring a distinctive stand collar, tailored panel construction, and a clean, elegant silhouette.
When To Wear
This coat is designed for versatile wear, making it an ideal choice for:
- Professional Settings: Ideal for adding a polished layer over work attire during colder months.
- Smart Casual Outings: Perfect for weekend excursions or social gatherings, offering warmth and style.
- Transitional Weather: a versatile outer layer suitable for autumn and mild winter days.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a tailored, straight silhouette with subtle shaping through vertical front and back panels, designed to fall gracefully to mid-thigh.
Neckline & Collar: a chic stand collar with an asymmetrical front overlay, creating a modern, sophisticated neckline that can be worn high or partially open.
Closure: a concealed button placket down the front, with one visible button and a ready-made decorative loop at the tip of the asymmetrical collar.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with a deep folded cuff at the wrist.
Pockets: Functional welt pockets with rectangular welts, set into the front style seams between the centre front and side front panels.
Back: Cleanly tailored back with multiple vertical seams for a sculpted and refined fit.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Requires experience with tailored outerwear construction, including welt pockets, lining, multi-panel assembly, and precise collar setting.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose medium to heavy-weight coat fabrics with good drape and structure:
- Wool blends
- Cashmere blends
- Tweed
- Dense gabardine
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- 6 buttons
- Lining fabric
- Ready decorative loop
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Back Inset – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Front Inset – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Stand Collar – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Off-Set Welt – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Pocket Bag – 4 pieces
- Hidden Button Placket Lining – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Front Inset – 2 pieces
- Stand Collar – 1 piece
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Off-Set Welt – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Hidden Button Placket Lining – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse the corresponding pieces with fusible interfacing.
- Fold each Off-Set Welt right sides together and stitch along the side edges. Trim seam allowances at corners, turn right side out, and press. Topstitch 0.7 cm from the edge. Stitch a Pocket Bag to the welt.
- Stitch the Front Inset to the Side Front, press the allowances open. Place a Pocket Bag on the right side of the Side Front, and the Pocket Bag with the attached welt on the Center Front, right side down. Stitch the pocket bags to the pocket opening allowances. Turn the Side Front seam onto the pocket bag and understitch.
- Stitch the front style seams and the pocket bags. Clip the allowance at the beginning and end of the pocket opening, press the style seam allowances towards the centre, pressing the pocket. Topstitch the side edges of the welt to the Side Front.
- Stitch the center back seam, press seam allowances open. Stitch the Back Inset to the Side Back, press the allowances open. Stitch the back style seams, press seam allowances towards the center.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the coat, press seam allowances open.
- Mark the hidden placket opening with three lines on the right side of the right Center Front Facing: the first line is parallel to the edge and 1.5 cm from the finished edge; the second and third lines define the length of the opening. Place the interfaced Hidden Button Placket Lining on the right side of the facing, right side down, pointing away from the front edge, aligning its cut edge with the marked line. Stitch 0.5 cm from the marked line along the opening up to the lines defining its length. Place the second Hidden Button Placket Lining flush with the stitching of the first lining and stitch 0.5 cm away. Check the correctness of the lining attachment from the wrong side (stitches should be parallel). Cut the opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from each end of the opening. Turn the linings through the opening to the wrong side, forming a frame from the fused lining equal to the width between the stitches. Topstitch along the lining attachment seam. Press the second lining towards the inner edge of the facing and topstitch 0.1 cm from the lining attachment seam. Mark and make the buttonholes. The buttonholes are made through the facing together with the interfaced placket lining. Straighten and secure the ends of the opening from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch the edges of the placket linings together. Place bar tacks between each pair of buttonholes, the length of the bar tack is equal to the frame width. Press the facing.
- Stitch the Back Neckline Facing to the Center Front Facings, press seam allowances open.
- Stitch the outer Stand Collar to the coat neckline, and the inner Stand Collar to the neckline of the facings and Back Neckline Facing; clip the allowances at curves, press open. Place the facings on the garment right sides together and stitch the front edges and the collar in one seam, inserting the decorative loop into the right end of the collar. Trim seam allowances at corners, turn the garment right side out, and press.
- Stitch the front seam of the Upper and Lower Sleeve, press seam allowances open.
- Press the cuff in half lengthwise, right side out. Unfold the cuff and attach the outer side to the lower sleeve edge, press seam allowances onto the cuff. Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve, simultaneously stitching the cuff.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches. Insert shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
- On the lining pieces, stitch the seams, leaving an opening in the front right sleeve seam. Place the lining right sides together with the coat and attach it to the inner edges of the front facings and the back neckline facing. Press the collar stand attachment seam allowances open and secure them close to the seams. Stitch the lower corner of the front edge, trim the corners. Mark and press the hem of the garment to the wrong side. Finish the hem of the garment with the lining. Stitch the lining sleeves to the inner half of the cuff. Turn the coat through the opening in the sleeve and stitch the opening closed.
- Topstitch the right front to secure the hidden button placket.
- Sew on the buttons to match the buttonholes.
