Tailored Stand Collar Coat
A sophisticated women's coat pattern featuring a distinctive stand collar, tailored panel construction, and a clean, elegant silhouette.
When To Wear
This coat is designed for versatile wear, making it an ideal choice for:
- Professional Settings: Ideal for adding a polished layer over work attire during colder months.
- Smart Casual Outings: Perfect for weekend excursions or social gatherings, offering warmth and style.
- Transitional Weather: a versatile outer layer suitable for autumn and mild winter days.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a tailored, straight silhouette with subtle shaping through vertical front and back panels, designed to fall gracefully to mid-thigh.
Neckline & Collar: a chic stand collar with an asymmetrical front overlay, creating a modern, sophisticated neckline that can be worn high or partially open.
Closure: a concealed button placket down the front, secured with a single visible decorative button at the top of the asymmetrical overlay.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with a distinctive cuff detail at the wrist, finished with topstitching.
Pockets: Functional horizontal welt pockets with pointed flaps (leaflets) are integrated into the front panel seams.
Back: Cleanly tailored back with multiple vertical seams for a sculpted and refined fit.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Requires experience with tailored outerwear construction, including welt pockets, lining, multi-panel assembly, and precise collar setting.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose medium to heavy-weight coat fabrics with good drape and structure:
- Wool blends
- Cashmere blends
- Tweed
- Dense gabardine
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- 6 buttons
- Lining fabric
- Ready decorative loop
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Back center – 2 qty
- Back side – 2 qty
- Back insert – 2 qty
- Front side – 2 qty
- Front insert – 2 qty
- Front center – 2 qty
- Sleeve upper – 2 qty
- Sleeve lower – 2 qty
- Collar stand – 2 qty
- Underlap – 2 qty
- Welt pocket – 2 qty
- Cuff – 2 qty
- Back neckline facing – 1 qty
- From lining fabric:
- Back center – 2 qty
- Back side – 2 qty
- Front center – 2 qty
- Front side – 2 qty
- Sleeve upper – 2 qty
- Sleeve lower – 2 qty
- Pocket bag – 4 qty
- Fly lining – 2 qty
- From fusible interfacing:
- Front center – 2 qty
- Front insert – 2 qty
- Collar stand – 1 qty
- Underlap – 2 qty
- Welt pocket – 2 qty
- Cuff – 2 qty
- Back neckline facing – 1 qty
- Fly lining – 1 qty
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse the corresponding pieces with fusible interfacing.
- Fold the welt pocket pieces right sides together and stitch along the side edges. Trim seam allowances at corners, turn right side out, and press. Topstitch 0.7 cm from the edge. Attach the pocket bag to the welt pocket.
- Attach the front insert to the side front, press seam allowances open. Place the pocket bag on the right side of the side front, and the pocket bag with the attached welt pocket on the center front, right side down. Attach the pocket bag to the pocket opening seam allowance. Fold the side front seam and topstitch it to the pocket bag.
- Stitch the princess seams of the front and the pocket bag. Clip the seam allowance at the beginning and end of the pocket opening, press the princess seam seam allowances towards the center, pressing the pocket. Topstitch the side edges of the welt pocket to the side front.
- Stitch the center back seam, press seam allowances open. Attach the back insert to the side back, press seam allowances open. Stitch the princess seams of the back, press seam allowances towards the center.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the coat, press seam allowances open.
- Mark the fly opening with three lines on the right underlap's right side: the first line is parallel to the edge and 1.5 cm from the finished edge; the second and third lines define the length of the opening. Place the fused lining on the right side of the underlap, right side down, from the edge, aligning the LINING's cut edge with the marked line. Stitch 0.5 cm from the marked line along the fly opening up to the lines defining the opening's length. Place the second fly lining flush with the stitching of the first lining and stitch 0.5 cm away. Check the correctness of the lining attachment from the wrong side (stitches should be parallel). Cut the opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the fly opening. Turn the linings through the opening to the wrong side, forming a frame from the fused lining equal to the width between the stitches. Topstitch along the lining attachment seam. Press the second lining towards the inner edge of the underlap and topstitch 0.1 cm from the lining attachment seam. Mark and overlock the buttonholes. Buttonholes are made on the underlap together with the fused lining. Straighten and secure the ends of the opening from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch the lining edges. Place bar tacks between each pair of buttonholes, the length of the bar tack is equal to the frame width. Press the underlap.
- Attach the back neckline facing to the underlaps, press seam allowances open.
- Attach the outer collar stand to the coat neckline, and the inner collar stand to the underlaps and facing neckline, clip seam allowances at curves, press open. Fold the underlaps with the garment and stitch the edges and collar stand in one seam, inserting a decorative loop into the right side of the collar stand. Trim seam allowances at corners, turn the garment right side out, and press.
- Stitch the front sleeve seam, press seam allowances open.
- Press the cuff in half lengthwise, right side out. Unfold the cuff and attach the outer side to the lower sleeve edge, press seam allowances onto the cuff. Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve, simultaneously stitching the cuff.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches. Insert shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
- On the lining pieces, stitch the seams, leaving an opening in the front right sleeve seam. Place the lining right sides together with the coat and attach it to the inner edges of the underlaps and the back neckline facing. Press the collar stand attachment seam allowances open and secure them close to the seams. Stitch the lower corner of the edge, trim the corners. Mark and press the hem of the garment to the wrong side. Finish the hem of the garment with the lining. Attach the lining sleeves to the inner cuff. Turn the coat through the opening in the sleeve and stitch the technical opening.
- Topstitch.
