Tailored Double-Breasted Coat with Belt

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
1. BACK PANEL center - 2 QTY
2. BACK PANEL side - 2 QTY
3. FRONT PANEL side – 2 QTY
4. FRONT PANEL center right – 1 QTY
5. FRONT PANEL center left - 1 QTY
6. Underlap right – 1 QTY
7. Underlap left – 1 QTY
8. COLLAR – 2 QTY
9. Lapel - 4 QTY
10. Flap - 4 QTY
11. BACK PANEL neckline FACING – 1 QTY
12. Shoulder tab – 2 QTY
13. Belt – 1 QTY
• From FUSIBLE INTERFACING:
1. Underlap right – 1 QTY
2. Underlap left – 1 QTY
3. COLLAR – 1 QTY
4. Lapel - 2 QTY
5. Flap - 2 QTY
6. BACK PANEL neckline FACING — 1 QTY

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the corresponding pieces.
2. Fold the shoulder tab lengthwise in half, right sides together, and stitch along the long and one short side. Trim SEAM ALLOWANCES at corners, turn the piece right side out, smooth, and press. Overcast the open edge.
3. Fold the flap pieces right sides together and stitch the outer sides. Trim SEAM ALLOWANCES at corners, turn the flap right side out. Overcast the upper edge.
4. Fold the COLLAR pieces right sides together and stitch along the ends and the outer edge. Clip SEAM ALLOWANCES near NOTCHES, trim corners, turn the COLLAR right side out, smooth, and press. Fold the lapel pieces right sides together, insert the COLLAR between them, and stitch the gorge line and the outer edge. Trim SEAM ALLOWANCES at corners, clip at curves. Turn the lapel right side out, press.
5. Stitch the BACK PANEL princess seams, press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the center seam and overcast. Stitch the center BACK PANEL seam, press SEAM ALLOWANCES to the left side and overcast.
6. Stitch the right FRONT PANEL princess seam, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open, overcast. Stitch the left FRONT PANEL princess seam, inserting the left part of the ZIPPER, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open, guiding the ZIPPER tape towards the side seam, overcast.
7. Stitch the shoulder seams, press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the BACK PANEL and overcast. Attach the COLLAR with lapels to the neckline.
8. Stitch the shoulder seams of the underlaps and the BACK PANEL neckline FACING, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open. Overcast the outer edge. Fold the underlaps with the garment right sides together and stitch the front edges and neckline, inserting the right part of the ZIPPER between the right underlap and the FRONT PANEL. Clip SEAM ALLOWANCES at curves, trim at corners. Turn the garment right side out, smooth, and press.
9. Cut a BIAS BINDING 4 cm wide and a length equal to the armhole length + 4 cm. Fold the BIAS BINDING lengthwise in half, right side out, and press. Fold the TRIM STRIP with the armhole edge on the right side, extending the ends, and stitch. Fold the TRIM STRIP to the wrong side, clip the seams, and topstitch along the fold to the main piece. Press the seam.
10. Stitch the side seams, press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the BACK PANEL and overcast. Place a bar tack near the armhole.
11. Place the shoulder tab under the shoulder seam, centering it, and topstitch into the TRIM STRIP stitching line. Fold the shoulder tab onto the shoulder and secure with a button.
12. Mark the flap placement. Attach the flap to the garment, turn down, and topstitch.
13. Overcast the hem allowance of the dress, press to the wrong side, and hem with blind stitches.
14. Sew buttons on the right FRONT PANEL according to markings. On the left FRONT PANEL, overcast a buttonhole and sew an inner button accordingly.
15. Fold the belt lengthwise in half, right sides together, and stitch along the long and short sides. Turn the belt right side out, press. Overcast the short side. Topstitch around the perimeter at 0.7 cm. Insert and secure the buckle on the overcast side of the belt.