Tailored Collared Coat
Introducing a sophisticated women's pattern for a tailored coat, featuring a classic collared neckline, elegant princess seams, and sleeve tabs.
When To Wear
This versatile tailored coat is perfect for adding a chic layer to your ensemble on various occasions:
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Everyday Elegance: Elevate your daily attire with a polished outer layer.
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Professional Settings: a smart and stylish addition to your work wardrobe.
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Transitional Seasons: Provides comfortable warmth without being bulky, ideal for spring or autumn.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a semi-fitted coat silhouette, gracefully shaped through princess seams on the front, extending to mid-thigh length.
Neckline & Collar: a classic rounded collar with a stand, providing a polished frame to the neckline and accented with decorative piping.
Closure: Single-breasted front closure secured with six prominent buttons and accented with decorative piping, adding a touch of traditional tailoring.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves finished with classic sleeve tabs accented with decorative piping.
Pockets: There are no functional pockets. Flaps accented with decorative piping are positioned on the waist seam.
Back: Features an elegant back with sholder darts, a defined waist seam, and a box pleat for ease of movement and sophisticated detailing.
Waist: a defined waistline created by a horizontal seam, enhancing the coat's structured yet flattering shape.
Length: Mid-thigh length, offering versatile styling options suitable for various outfits.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Involves techniques such as collar & stand construction, inserting two-piece sleeves, inserting decorative piping, flap pocket creation, and lining assembly.
Fabric Recommendations
Achieve a structured and elegant finish with medium-weight fabrics that hold their shape well:
- Coat fabrics made from natural or blended fibers
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- Lining fabric
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve heads
- 6 buttons
- Finishing cord with piping
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Upper back – 2 pieces
- Lower back – 1 piece on fold
- Center upper front – 2 pieces
- Side upper front – 2 pieces
- Lower front — 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- Sleeve tab — 4 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Collar stand – 2 pieces
- Flap – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Upper back – 2 pieces
- Lower back – 1 piece on fold
- Center upper front – 2 pieces
- Side upper front – 2 pieces
- Lower front — 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- Flap – 2 pieces
Attention: lining pieces are cut with the front facing and neckline facing deducted.
From fusible interfacing: center front, upper collar, inner collar stand, front facing, back neckline facing, outer flap, sleeve tab, armhole areas and hem seam allowances.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse fusible interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Place flap pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer contour, inserting piping. Clip seam allowances at curves, turn pieces right side out and press.
- Stitch darts on the upper back. Press darts towards the center back. On the lower back, create and secure the inverted pleat according to markings. Attach the lower back to the upper back. Press seam allowances upwards.
- Stitch the princess seams of the front. Press seam allowances towards the center front. On the lower front, create a pleat according to markings. Direct the pleat depth towards the side. Attach the lower front to the upper front, inserting the flap between the pieces. Press seam allowances upwards.
- Stitch side and shoulder seams. Press seam allowances open.
- Attach the upper collar to the collar stand, attach the lower collar to the collar stand. Press seam allowances open.
- Place collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer edge and side edges, inserting piping. Start and end the seam strictly at the marked collar stand attachment line. Turn the collar right side out and press.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing. Press seam allowances open.
- Press up the hem allowance. Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin and stitch along the front edge, inserting piping. Stitch upwards to the notch indicating the end of the collar attachment. Trim the seam allowances of the upper front edge corners. Turn the front edges right side out, straighten the seams.
- Attach the upper collar to the neckline of the main garment, and the lower collar to the neckline of the back facing and front facing. Press seam allowances open. Secure the collar attachment seam allowances close to the seams.
- Fold sleeve tabs in pairs right sides together and stitch along the long sides, inserting piping. Place the tab on the right side of the upper sleeve and secure along the seams. Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve. Attach sleeves to the armhole, easing the sleeve at the top of the cap and aligning notches. Insert shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
- Stitch lining pieces similarly to the main garment pieces, leaving an opening in the left front sleeve seam. Attach the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and the back neckline facing. Stitch the lower corner of the front edge. Stitch the lining to the garment hem.
- Attach the lining to the bottom of the sleeves. Turn the coat right side out. Close the technological opening.
- On the right front, make buttonholes; on the left front, sew on buttons.
- On the back, along the outer and inner fold edges, topstitch 1 cm from the fold, catching the hem allowance.
