Fitted Collared Jacket With Sleeves
A women's sewing pattern for a chic, fitted jacket featuring an elegant cascading front opening and a tailored silhouette, perfect for sophisticated layering.
When To Wear
This versatile jacket pattern is perfect for adding a sophisticated touch to various outfits, making it suitable for:
- Business & Professional Settings: Elevate office wear with its refined fit and distinctive front.
- Evening & Semi-Formal Gatherings: a stylish choice for dinners or events, especially when accessorized.
- Everyday Chic: Ideal for polished daily wear, pairing effortlessly with trousers or skirts.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted through the bodice with a shaped waist, enhancing the natural figure.
Neckline & Front: Features a unique draped/cascading shawl collar that flows down the front, creating a soft, open silhouette.
Closure: Designed with an open front, allowing for versatile styling, often worn with an accessory belt as shown.
Sleeves: Long, two-piece set-in sleeves ensure a tailored and comfortable arm fit.
Back: Shaped back with princess seams and a distinct horizontal waist seam, emphasizing the fitted design.
Length: Waist-length, finishing elegantly at or just below the natural waistline.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Requires attention to detail for the draped collar construction, precise seam matching, and setting tailored sleeves.
Fabric Recommendations
Select pliable suiting fabrics that drape well to best showcase the cascading front:
- Thin, pliable suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibers
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- Lining fabric
- 3 buttons
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Back (center) – 2 pieces
- Back (side) – 2 pieces
- Front (side) – 2 pieces
- Front (center) – 2 pieces
- Back skirt half – 2 pieces
- Front skirt half – 4 pieces
- Collar (left) – 2 pieces
- Collar (right) – 2 pieces
- Facing (front) – 2 pieces
- Back neck facing – 1 piece
- Sleeve (upper) – 2 pieces
- Sleeve (lower) – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Front (center) – 2 pieces
- Front (side) - 2 pieces
- Back (center) – 2 pieces
- Back (side) – 2 pieces
- Sleeve (upper) – 2 pieces
- Sleeve (lower) – 2 pieces
Attention: The front and back lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric patterns, subtracting the width of the front facings and the back neck facing, respectively.
- From fusible interfacing:
- Front (center) – 2 pieces
- Collar (left) – 1 piece
- Collar (right) – 1 piece
- Facing (front) – 2 pieces
- Back neck facing – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces, as well as the hem of the garment and sleeve hems.
- On the back, stitch and press darts towards the center. Stitch and press open the back princess seams. Stitch and press open the center back seam. Attach the back skirt half to the back.
- Stitch and press open the front princess seams. Attach the front skirt half to the front.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder and side seams of the jacket.
- Place the left collar with the right, right sides together, and stitch the center seam. Press seam allowances open. Place the collar pieces right sides together and stitch the ends and outer edge. Trim seam allowances at corners, clip curves. Turn the collar right side out, shape, and press. Attach the collar to the neckline and stitch to the edge of the right front opening.
- Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching notches and easing the sleeve cap. Insert shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neck facing and front facings. Stitch and press open the side seams of the inner pieces of the back and front skirt halves. On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the seams and set the sleeves, leaving an opening in the front left sleeve seam. Attach the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and the back neck facing. Attach the back and front skirt halves to the lining.
- Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin, and stitch all around the front opening, neckline, and garment hem. Trim seams at corners, clip curves. Turn the jacket right side out, shape seams, and press.
- Attach the lining to the sleeve hem. Stitch the opening in the sleeve. Topstitch under the collar, stitching the main garment to the front facing. Secure the jacket to the lining along the attachment line of the lower parts.
- On the right front, make buttonholes, and on the left front, sew on buttons.
- Create pleats on the right collar.
Tip: The jacket is recommended to be worn with a belt.
