CUTTER'S MUST
- From knit fabric:
- BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
- FRONT PANEL – 1 QTY on fold
- From silk:
- BACK NECK FACING – 2 QTY
- FRONT NECK FACING – 2 QTY
- SLEEVE – 4 QTY (2 QTY as LINING)
- Waistband – 1 QTY
- Waistband Placket – 1 QTY
- Bow – 1 QTY
- From FUSIBLE INTERFACING:
- FRONT NECK FACING — 1 QTY
- BACK NECK FACING — 1 QTY
Tip: Cut pieces from knit fabrics are sewn with a special elastic or narrow zigzag stitch. When serging with an overlock, trim SEAM ALLOWANCES on knit fabric to 0.6 – 0.8 cm. The hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle or on a coverstitch machine to maintain elasticity. You can also sew the pieces directly on a 3- or 4-thread overlock.
Sewing Instructions
- On the FRONT PANEL, mark and stitch the darts. Trim the dart depths with an overlock. Stitch the center back seam. Press the seam open.
- Fold the SLEEVE pieces in pairs right sides together and stitch along the lower edge. Turn the pieces right side out and press. Secure the SLEEVE to the LINING and then treat as a single-layer piece. On the SLEEVE, create soft pleats according to the markings. The pleat depths are directed towards the BACK PANEL. Secure the pleats along the upper seam. Clip the SEAM ALLOWANCE on the armhole of the BACK PANEL and FRONT PANEL near the mark. Attach the SLEEVES to the BACK PANEL and FRONT PANEL. Press the seam towards the BACK PANEL and FRONT PANEL.
- Stitch the side seams, serge, and press towards the BACK PANEL.
- Reinforce the outer FACINGS with FUSIBLE INTERFACING. Stitch the FRONT NECK FACING and BACK NECK FACING in pairs. Press the seam open. Fold the FACINGS right sides together and stitch the inner edge. Turn the pieces right side out and press. Attach the lower FACING to the neckline edge. Press the seam towards the FACING. Press the outer edge of the upper FACING 1 cm inwards and topstitch into the seam of the lower FACING attachment.
- Serge the lower edge of the garment and the lower edge of the armhole. Fold to the wrong side, press, and topstitch.
- On the waistband placket, press the long sides to the wrong side by 1 cm. Topstitch the placket onto the waistband along the marked line. Fold the waistband in half lengthwise right sides together and stitch along three sides, inserting hooks into one of the short sides, and leaving an opening for turning in the long side. Turn the waistband right side out, straighten, and press. Close the technical opening. Adjust the waistband length and sew loops for the hooks.
- Fold the bow in half lengthwise and stitch along three sides, leaving an opening for turning in the long side. Turn the bow right side out, straighten, and press. Close the opening. Stitch the center of the bow along the marked line. Stitch on the right side of the bow. Fold the bow along the fold lines: “outer” - outer edge, “inner” - inner edge. Fold the left side of the bow symmetrically. Fold the topstitched part upwards and secure the folded bow through under the transverse stitch. Sew the bow to the waistband. Sew a decorative bead over the created fold.
