CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- 1. Center upper BACK PANEL - 2 QTY
- 2. Side upper BACK PANEL - 2 QTY
- 3. Lower BACK PANEL - 2 QTY
- 4. Center upper FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
- 5. Side upper FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
- 6. Middle FRONT PANEL - 1 QTY
- 7. Lower FRONT PANEL - 1 QTY
- 8. COLLAR Stand - 4 QTY
- 9. Neckline FACING (front) – 2 QTY
- 10. Front FLOUNCE – 2 QTY
- 11. Back FLOUNCE – 2 QTY
- From FUSIBLE INTERFACING:
- 1. COLLAR Stand — 2 QTY
- 2. Front FACING – 2 QTY
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the designated pieces.
- Stitch darts on the lower BACK PANEL and FRONT PANEL pieces and on the upper FRONT PANEL. Press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the center.
- Stitch shoulder SEAM ALLOWANCES of the center BACK PANEL and FRONT PANEL pieces, press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the back and serge. Stitch shoulder SEAM ALLOWANCES on the side BACK PANEL and FRONT PANEL pieces, press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the back and serge.
- Serge the outer edges of the FLOUNCES with a narrow rolled hem. Stitch the center and side BACK PANEL and FRONT PANEL pieces, inserting the FLOUNCES between them (the front FLOUNCE is placed over the back one). Press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the center, serge.
- Stitch the center seam of the upper front, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open. Stitch the center seam of the front neckline FACING, press SEAM ALLOWANCES open. Serge the outer edges. Place the FACING and the garment wrong sides together and stitch the neckline. Turn the FACING to the wrong side, straighten, and press. Secure the neckline edge of the FACING to the neckline edge of the main garment.
- On the inner COLLAR stand, press and topstitch the section from the center seam to the shoulder seam NOTCH. Place the COLLAR stands right sides together and stitch the outer edge. Begin and end the stitching at the marked line of the COLLAR stand attachment seam to the neckline. Clip SEAM ALLOWANCES at curves, turn the COLLAR stand out and press. Attach the outer COLLAR stand to the neckline.
- Stitch the upper and lower BACK PANEL pieces, press SEAM ALLOWANCES downwards and serge.
- On the left BACK PANEL piece, cut 5 cm along the vertical slit edge. On both BACK PANEL pieces, fuse the slit from the wrong side. On the right side, mark the center seam line (the slit fold line). Press the left piece along the slit fold line; on the right piece, press only the SEAM ALLOWANCE of the right side of the slit (6 cm) to the wrong side. Align the pieces along the center seam and secure at the upper edge of the slit. Serge the center seam of the BACK PANEL separately on each piece. Serge the slit SEAM ALLOWANCES. Stitch the center seam of the BACK PANEL from the fastener NOTCH to the slit corner. Clip the corner of the slit seam SEAM ALLOWANCE on the right piece. Press the center seam SEAM ALLOWANCES open, press the slit SEAM ALLOWANCES and secure them on the right side with machine stitching.
- Insert the ZIPPER, placing it in the upper part between the COLLAR stands. Turn the COLLAR stand to the right side, straighten. Fold the edge of the inner COLLAR stand on the unfinished section and topstitch into the attachment seam.
- Attach the middle FRONT PANEL to the upper one, press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the middle part and serge. Attach the lower FRONT PANEL to the middle one, press SEAM ALLOWANCES downwards and serge.
- Cut (if not pre-made) a BIAS BINDING 4 cm wide and a length equal to the armhole length + 5 cm. Fold the BIAS BINDING in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the binding with the armhole edge right side together and stitch. Clip SEAM ALLOWANCES. Fold the binding to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold to the main piece. Press the seam.
- Stitch the side seams, press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the back and serge. Place bar tacks at the side seam at the armhole level.
- Serge the hem allowance of the dress, press to the wrong side and hem with blind stitches.
