Tailored Blazer with Lapel Collar and Vent

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
1. BACK PANEL Yoke - 1 QTY
2. Upper BACK PANEL - 2 QTY
3. Middle BACK PANEL - 1 QTY
4. Lower BACK PANEL - 2 QTY
5. FRONT PANEL Yoke - 2 QTY
6. Center upper FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
7. Side upper FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
8. Middle FRONT PANEL - 1 QTY
9. FRONT PANEL Insert - 1 QTY
10. Lower FRONT PANEL - 1 QTY
11. Lapel - 4 QTY
12. Collar Stand - 2 QTY
13. SLEEVE - 2 QTY
14. SLEEVE Placket – 2 QTY
15. FRONT PANEL neckline FACING – 2 QTY
• From FUSIBLE INTERFACING:
1. Lapel – 2 QTY
2. Collar Stand - 1 QTY
3. FRONT PANEL neckline FACING – 2 QTY

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to designated pieces.
2. Stitch darts on the upper and lower BACK PANELS, press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the center.
3. Stitch the center seam of the upper BACK PANEL, press SEAM ALLOWANCES to the left side and serge. Attach the yoke to the upper BACK PANEL, press SEAM ALLOWANCES upwards and serge.
4. On the left lower BACK PANEL, trim 5 cm along the vertical slit edge. On both lower BACK PANEL pieces, fuse interfacing to the slit from the wrong side. On the right side, mark the center seam line (slit fold line). Press the left part along the slit fold line; on the right part, press only the SEAM ALLOWANCE of the right side of the slit (6 cm) to the wrong side. Align the pieces along the center seam and secure at the upper edge of the slit. Serge the center edge of the BACK PANEL separately on each piece. Serge the slit SEAM ALLOWANCES. Stitch the center edge of the BACK PANEL from the upper edge to the corner of the slit. Clip the corner of the slit SEAM ALLOWANCE on the right part. Press open the center seam SEAM ALLOWANCES, press the slit SEAM ALLOWANCES and secure them on the right side with machine stitching.
5. Attach the middle BACK PANEL to the upper part, press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the middle part and serge. Attach the lower BACK PANEL to the middle part, press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the middle part and serge.
6. Place lapel pieces right sides together and stitch the outer edge. Turn the piece right side out, shape, and press.
7. Stitch the princess seams on the upper FRONT PANEL pieces. Press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the center and serge. Place the lapel on the wrong side of the upper FRONT PANEL and stitch. Serge SEAM ALLOWANCES. Turn the lapel to the right side, shape, and press. Secure the lapel to the FRONT PANEL at the upper and lower edges.
8. Attach the yoke to the upper FRONT PANEL, press SEAM ALLOWANCES upwards and serge. Overlap the right FRONT PANEL over the left and secure at the lower edge.
9. Form and secure pleats on the lower FRONT PANEL. Attach the FRONT PANEL insert to the lower part, press SEAM ALLOWANCES upwards and serge.
10. Attach the middle FRONT PANEL to the upper part, press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the middle part and serge. Attach the lower FRONT PANEL to the middle part, press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the middle part and serge.
11. Place COLLAR STAND pieces right sides together and stitch the upper edge. Clip SEAM ALLOWANCES, turn the COLLAR STAND right side out, shape, and press. Stitch the outer COLLAR STAND into the BACK PANEL neckline, fold the inner COLLAR STAND SEAM ALLOWANCE inwards and topstitch into the attachment seam.
12. Serge the outer edge of the FRONT PANEL neckline FACING. Place the FRONT PANEL neckline FACING with the FRONT PANEL and stitch the section from the shoulder seam to the mark. The stitching should start and end precisely at the marked shoulder seam line. Clip SEAM ALLOWANCES at curves, trim at corners.
13. Stitch shoulder seams, sandwiching the BACK PANEL shoulder seam between the FRONT PANEL shoulder seam and the FACING. Press and serge SEAM ALLOWANCES. Turn the neckline FACING to the wrong side, shape, and press.
14. Serge the left side seam separately. Stitch the left side seam, leaving an unstitched section for the ZIPPER. Press open SEAM ALLOWANCES. Insert the ZIPPER. Stitch the right side seam, press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the BACK PANEL and serge.
15. Fold the SLEEVE placket in half lengthwise, right side out. Attach the placket to the lower edge of the SLEEVE, press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the SLEEVE and serge. Set the SLEEVES into the armholes, clip SEAM ALLOWANCES at NOTCHES, press and serge.
16. Cut a BIAS BINDING 4 cm wide and a length equal to the length of the lower armhole + 6 cm. Fold the BIAS BINDING in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the binding with the armhole edge on the right side, extending the tails, and stitch. Fold the binding to the wrong side, clip the seams, and topstitch along the fold to the main piece. Press the seam.
17. Serge the hem allowance of the dress, press to the wrong side and hem with blind stitches.