Cap Sleeve Peplum Pencil Dress

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. Also needed: concealed zipper, fusible interfacing.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; vent allowance – 6 cm; hem allowance for dress and sleeve hem – 2.0 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Central upper back part - 2 pieces
  • Side upper back part - 2 pieces
  • Back insert - 2 pieces
  • Central lower back part - 2 pieces
  • Side lower back part - 2 pieces
  • Central upper front part - 1 piece
  • Side upper front part - 2 pieces
  • Front insert - 1 piece
  • Lower front part - 1 piece
  • Peplum - 4 pieces
  • Sleeve - 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
  • Front neckline facing – 1 piece
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
  • Front neckline facing – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

1. Reinforce neckline facing pieces with fusible interfacing.
2. Stitch darts on the lower front part, press allowances towards the center. Stitch darts on the central upper back part, press allowances towards the center.
3. Stitch princess seams on the upper back and front pieces. Press allowances towards the center and overcast. Stitch side and shoulder seams of the upper part, press allowances towards the back and overcast.
4. Stitch side seams of back and front inserts, press allowances towards the back and overcast. Attach the insert to the upper part, press allowances towards the insert and overcast.
5. Fold peplum pieces right sides together and stitch the vertical short and lower edges. Turn the piece right side out, straighten, and press.
6. Stitch princess seams of the lower back part, inserting the peplum. Press allowances towards the center and overcast. Stitch side seams of the lower part, press allowances towards the back and overcast. Fold the peplum along the marked line and secure it to the lower part of the dress along the upper edge.
7. Attach the insert to the lower front part, press allowances towards the insert and overcast.
8. On the left central lower back part, trim 5 cm along the vertical edge of the vent. On both central lower back pieces, reinforce the vent from the wrong side. On the right side, mark the center seam line (vent fold line). Press the left part along the vent fold line; on the right part, press only the allowance of the right side of the vent (6 cm) to the wrong side. Align the pieces along the center seam and secure along the upper edge of the vent. Overcast the center back seam separately on each piece. Overcast the vent allowances. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the vent corner. Clip the corner of the vent seam allowance on the right part. Press the center seam allowances open, press the vent allowances and secure them on the right side with machine stitching. Insert the zipper.
9. Stitch shoulder seams of facings. Press allowances open and overcast. Overcast the outer edge of the facings. Place the dress with the facing right sides together, aligning neckline edges. Before reaching 5 mm from the edges of the concealed zipper, fold back the facing and pin it to the upper edge of the dress. On the right side of the dress, fold back the allowances along the zipper and pin them to the neckline edge over the facing. Stitch the neckline edge. Clip the seam at curves, turn pieces right side out and press. Topstitch seam allowances to the facing. Attach the facing to the zipper tape.
10. Overcast the lower edge of the sleeve, press to the wrong side and topstitch. Set sleeves into armholes, matching notches. Clip allowances at marks, press and overcast.
11. Cut a bias strip 4 cm wide and a length equal to the length of the lower armhole + 6 cm. Fold the bias strip in half lengthwise right side out and press. Place the bias strip with the armhole edge right sides together, extending the tails, and stitch. Fold the bias strip to the wrong side, clip seams and topstitch along the fold to the main piece. Press the seam.
12. Overcast the hem allowance of the dress, press to the wrong side and hem with blind stitches.