Collared Shirt with Shaped Placket
Presenting a versatile women's sewing pattern for a fitted long sleeve blouse, distinguished by its unique shaped button-up placket and classic collar.
When To Wear
This blouse is a stylish and adaptable choice, perfect for:
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Office & Professional Settings: Its tailored fit and smart design make it an ideal staple for the workplace.
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Smart Casual Gatherings: Easily pairs with trousers or skirts for an elegant yet relaxed look.
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Creative or Stylish Ensembles: The unique wavy placket adds a distinctive touch for fashion-forward outfits.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted through the bodice with shaping darts for a flattering contour, and a gracefully curved hem.
Neckline & Collar: Features a classic shirt collar with a separate stand, providing a polished frame for the face.
Closure: a full-length button-up front with a distinctive wavy placket, adding a unique design element to the blouse.
Sleeves: Long set-in sleeves finished with tailored cuffs, designed to be rolled up for a casual look as shown in the photo.
Back: Features vertical darts for a flattering, contoured fit through the back bodice.
Hem: a curved shirt hem, allowing it to be worn tucked in for a neat appearance or untucked for a more relaxed style.
Length: Hip length, offering versatile styling options.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Involves accurate construction of a shirt collar with a stand, button plackets, darts for shaping, and tailored cuffs.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose light to medium-weight blouse fabrics with good drape and body:
- Blouse fabric from natural or blended fibers (cotton, viscose, polyester)
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- 13 buttons
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: Hem allowance – 1.5 cm, other seams – 1 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). Inscriptions on the patterns are on the right side!
- From main fabric:
- Back - 2 pieces
- Right front - 1 piece
- Left front - 1 piece
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Collar stand – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Placket - 4 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Upper collar – 1 piece
- Lower collar stand – 1 piece
- Placket – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
Note: the placket piece is universal for both left and right fronts.
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Place the upper collar and lower collar right sides together. Stitch the ends and the outer edge of the collar. Trim the seams. Turn the collar right side out, shape, and press. Place the collar stand pieces right sides together, insert the prepared collar between them, align the notches, and stitch, simultaneously stitching the ends of the collar stand. Start and end the stitching strictly at the marked line of the collar stand attachment seam. Turn the prepared collar right side out and press.
- Stitch the darts on the fronts. Press waist darts towards the center front, bust darts – upwards. Stitch the darts on the back. Press darts towards the center back seam. Stitch the center back seam. Serge the seam and press open.
- Place the placket pieces right sides together and stitch the outer edge (for the right front, this will be the outer edge, and for the left, the inner edge). Trim seam allowances to 0.7 cm, clip, turn the pieces right side out, and press. Topstitch along the outer edge of the placket 0.1 cm from the edge. Attach the outer placket to the right front. Clip the seam and press towards the placket. Fold the inner placket inwards and topstitch in the attachment seam. Process the left placket similarly.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams. Serge the seams and press towards the back.
- Attach the upper collar stand with the collar to the neckline, fold the open edge of the lower collar stand inwards, and topstitch into the attachment seam of the upper collar stand. Topstitch along the collar stand and collar 0.1 cm from the edge.
- Serge the sleeve edges separately. Stitch the edges up to the notch, press seams open. Set in the sleeves, easing the cap.
- Fold the cuffs in half and stitch the short sides. Start and end the stitching strictly at the marked line of the cuff attachment seam. Turn the cuffs right side out and press. On the sleeve, create pleats along the marked lines. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve. Fold the inner side of the cuff inwards and topstitch in the attachment seam. On the cuffs, make buttonholes and sew on buttons.
- Serge the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side, and topstitch.
- On the right front, make buttonholes, on the left - sew on buttons.
