Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: Thin, well-draping silk fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. Also needed: 6 buttons; fusible interfacing; elastic tape 1 cm wide.
CUTTER'S MUST
SEAM ALLOWANCES: All seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the back and front – 2 cm. ATTENTION! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Upper back part – 1 piece
- Lower back part – 1 piece
- Side front part - 2 pieces
- Center front part - 2 pieces
- Lower front part – 1 piece
- Collar stand – 2 pieces
- Belt loop - 1 piece
- Belt - 1 piece on fold
- From fusible interfacing:
- Collar stand
- Integrated placket
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the NOTCHES - they must match!
- Interface the collar stand piece and the integrated placket on the center front part with fusible interfacing.
- Form and stitch the pleats on the center front part. The depths are directed towards the side edge.
- Press the placket edge on the center front part to the wrong side by 1 cm. Fold the integrated placket along the placket line to the right side and stitch the upper corner. Clip the allowance at the mark, turn the placket to the wrong side, press. Topstitch the placket to the front along the inner fold.
- Stitch the side front part to the center front, clipping at the corner, press allowances upwards and towards the side edge and overcast.
- On the right placket, overcast buttonholes, on the left placket, sew on buttons. Overlap the front pieces, secure at the bottom edge and then treat as one piece.
- Stitch shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and overcast.
- Fold the collar stand pieces right sides together and stitch the outer edge. Start and end the stitching at the marked seam line for attaching the collar stand to the neckline. Clip allowances, turn the collar stand to the right side, press.
- Stitch the outer collar stand to the neckline, fold the raw longitudinal edge of the inner collar stand and topstitch into the seam.
- Cut a bias binding 4 cm wide and a length equal to the armhole length + 5 cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise right side out and press. Place the binding with the armhole edge right sides together and stitch, clip allowances. Fold the binding to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold to the main piece, press.
- Stitch the side edges of the upper part. Press allowances towards the back and overcast.
- Stitch the side edges of the lower part. Press allowances towards the back and overcast. Along the upper edge, make a basting stitch with loosely tensioned stitches and gather to the length of the lower edge of the upper part. Stitch the lower part to the upper, press allowances and overcast.
- Cut a piece of elastic tape equal to the waist circumference and topstitch it, stretching, to the seam allowance of the upper and lower parts.
- Overcast the bottom of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Overcast one long edge of the belt loop. Fold the belt loop into three layers and topstitch along the long sides. Cut the belt loop into 2 pieces. Sew the belt loops at the waist on the side seams.
- Fold the belt in half lengthwise right sides together and stitch along the long and short sides, leaving an opening for turning. Turn the belt to the right side, press. Close the opening.
