Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibers; lace fabric. Also needed: concealed zipper; fusible interfacing; lace 2 cm wide (approximate length indicated on patterns); decorative fastener.
CUTTER'S MUST
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom edge of the garment and allowance along the slit on the back – 2.0 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Upper center back part – 2 pieces
- Upper side back part – 2 pieces
- Lower center back part - 2 pieces
- Lower side back part - 2 pieces
- Lower side front part – 2 pieces
- Lower center front part – 1 piece
- Upper center front part - 1 piece
- Upper side front part – 2 pieces
- Collar stand - 2 pieces
- From lace fabric:
- Upper center back part – 2 pieces
- Upper side back part – 2 pieces
- Upper center front part - 1 piece
- Upper side front part – 2 pieces
- Front yoke - 2 pieces
- Sleeve - 2 pieces
- Collar stand - 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Collar stand - 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Fuse interfacing to the collar stand piece, as well as the slit allowance of the center lower back part.
- Stitch darts on the upper center back part from the main piece and from the lace fabric, press seam allowances towards the center. Place the lace piece on the main piece and continue to treat as one piece. Stitch the upper and lower center back parts, press seam allowances upwards and overcast.
- Place the lace piece of the upper side back part on the main piece and continue to treat as one piece. Stitch the upper and lower side back parts, press seam allowances upwards and overcast. Stitch the back princess seams, press seam allowances towards the center and overcast.
- Overcast the center back seam separately on each piece. Stitch the center back seam from the top to the slit mark. Press seam allowances open, pressing the slit.
- Place the upper center front part made of lace on the main piece, secure along the edges and continue to treat as one piece. Stitch the center upper and lower front parts, press seam allowances upwards and overcast.
- Place the upper side front part made of lace on the main piece, secure along the edges and continue to treat as one piece. Stitch the side upper and lower front parts, press seam allowances upwards and overcast.
- Stitch the front princess seams, press seam allowances towards the center and overcast. Overcast the upper edge of the front, press seam allowances to the wrong side, place lace trim under the edge and topstitch.
- Overcast the lower edge of the front yoke, press to the wrong side, place lace trim under the edge and topstitch. Place the yoke on the front, secure along the armhole edge.
- Stitch shoulder seams and the right side seam, press seam allowances towards the back and overcast. Overcast the left side seams separately. Stitch the left side seam, leaving the zipper opening unstitched. Press seam allowances open, pressing the zipper opening. Insert the zipper.
- Place the lace collar stand on the main piece, secure along the edges and continue to treat as one piece. Fold the collar stand pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer edge. Start and end the stitching strictly at the marked seam line for attachment. Turn the finished collar stand right side out, shape and press. Attach the outer edge of the collar stand to the neckline. Press the seam towards the collar stand. Turn under the open inner edge and topstitch into the attachment seam. Topstitch the decorative fastener onto the collar stand.
- Overcast the lower edge of the sleeve, place a lace strip under the edge and topstitch. Set sleeves into armholes, matching notches. Clip seam allowances at marks, press towards the front and back and overcast.
- Cut bias binding 4 cm wide and a length equal to the length of the lower part of the sleeve + 6 cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise right side out and press. Place the binding along the armhole edge right side up, leaving tails, and stitch. Fold the binding to the wrong side, clip seams and topstitch along the fold to the main piece. Press the seam.
- Overcast the hem allowance of the dress, press to the wrong side and topstitch. Topstitch the sides of the slit 0.1 cm from the edge.
