Fitted Cap Sleeve Collar Dress

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. Also needed: concealed ZIPPER, FUSIBLE INTERFACING, ELASTIC THREAD, LINING FABRIC.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for the dress bottom – 2.0 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). Markings on the patterns are on the right side.

• From main fabric:
  • Center back – 2 pieces
  • Side back – 2 pieces
  • Center front – 1 piece
  • Side front – 2 pieces
  • Collar — 2 pieces
  • Sleeve - 2 pieces
  • Neckline facing – 1 piece
• From lining:
  • Sleeve lining — 2 pieces (cut according to upper sleeve patterns)
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Upper collar
  • Neckline facing

Sewing Instructions

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

1. Interface pieces with fusible interfacing.
2. Stitch the back princess seams. Press the seam towards the center and overcast.
3. On both lower back pieces, interface the vent from the wrong side. On the right side, mark the center seam line (vent fold line). Stitch the center back seam up to the vent corner. Clip the vent seam allowance corner. Overcast the center back seam and vent allowances separately. Press the center seam allowances to the left side. Press the right side of the vent 1 cm to the wrong side and topstitch. Press the vent allowances towards the left side seam and topstitch along the top with a machine stitch.
4. Face the front neckline with the facing. Clip the seam. Turn the pieces right side out and press.
5. Stitch the front princess seams. Clip the seam at the upper notch. Press the allowance towards the center front and overcast.
6. Stitch the shoulder seams and the right side seam, press allowances towards the back and overcast. Overcast the left side seam separately and stitch, leaving the section between the marks unstitched. Press the seam open, pressing the zipper opening. Insert the zipper.
7. Fold the collar pieces right sides together and stitch the ends and outer edge of the collar. Start and end stitching strictly at the marked collar attachment line. Turn the finished collar right side out, straighten the corners, and press. Attach the outer edge of the collar to the neckline. Press the seam towards the collar. Turn under the open inner edge of the collar and topstitch into the collar attachment seam.
8. Place the sleeve and lining right sides together and stitch along the lower edge. Stitch with elastic thread between the marks. Turn the lining back and secure it to the sleeve at the cap. Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching notches. Press the seam towards the front and back and overcast.
9. Cut a bias strip 4 cm wide and a length equal to the lower sleeve length + 6 cm. Fold the bias strip in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the bias strip with the armhole edge right sides together, extending the tails, and stitch. Fold the bias strip to the wrong side, clip the seams, and topstitch along the fold to the main piece. Press the seam.
10. Overcast the hem allowance of the dress bottom, press to the wrong side, and topstitch.
11. The dress is recommended to be worn with a belt.