Fitted Knit Jacket with Gathered Trim

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: Dense knit fabric with low stretch (French terry). Also needed: 3 buttons; silk companion fabric for trim.

CUTTER'S MUST

If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for jacket bottom and sleeve bottom - 3 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

• From main fabric:
  • Center back – 2 pieces
  • Side back – 2 pieces
  • Side front – 2 pieces
  • Center front – 2 pieces
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
• From companion fabric:
  • Trim – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!

1. Stitch the princess seams of the front. Finish seam allowances and press towards the center. Stitch the princess seams of the back. Finish seam allowances and press towards the center. Stitch, finish, and press the center back seam to the left side. Stitch the shoulder seams of the jacket. Finish seam allowances and press towards the back.
2. Stitch the upper edge of the trim. Press seam allowances open. Stitch along the long edges with loosely tensioned stitches and gather. Place the trim on the right side of the jacket, right side down, aligning the inner edge of the trim with the marked line. Topstitch the trim. Fold back the trim, aligning the outer edges of the trim and jacket. Secure along the outer edge 0.5 cm from the edge.
3. Stitch the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facings. Finish seam allowances and press towards the back. Finish the outer edge.
4. Place the front facing with the neckline facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin and stitch the front edge, front neckline, back neckline, and bottom of the jacket. Stitching is done from the front side. Topstitch the seam allowance of the front edge to the front facing. The stitching is placed 0.2 cm from the seam. Fold the front facing to the wrong side, clipping at curves. Attach the front facing to the shoulder seam with hand stitches.
5. Stitch the sleeve seam, press seam allowances and finish. Set sleeves into armholes according to notches, easing the sleeve cap in the upper part. Press seam allowances and finish.
6. Finish the bottom of the jacket, fold inwards and topstitch.
7. Finish the bottom of the sleeve, fold the allowance inwards and topstitch.
8. On the right front, make buttonholes, on the left front, sew on buttons.