Open Front Jacket with Bell Sleeves
Introducing a women's sewing pattern for a chic, cropped jacket featuring a distinctive yoke, a collarless open front, and bell sleeves.
When To Wear
This jacket is a versatile layering piece, designed for contemporary styling and perfect for:
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Elevated Everyday: Pair with casual trousers or jeans for a sophisticated, put-together look.
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Transitional Seasons: An ideal outer layer for cooler weather, offering warmth without bulk.
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Fashion-Forward Ensembles: The striking bell sleeves make it a statement piece for unique styling.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Cropped and relaxed, creating a comfortable yet structured shape.
Neckline: Collarless, with a clean, rounded open front.
Closure: Open-front design, without fasteners.
Sleeves: Long, two-piece bell sleeves, creating a dramatic flared silhouette at the cuffs.
Yoke: Features a distinct yoke across the upper back and front shoulders for structural detail.
Length: Cropped, finishing above the hip.
Lining: Fully lined for a smooth finish and added comfort.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Requires skills in lining construction, attaching facings, and setting two-piece sleeves.
Fabric Recommendations
To achieve the structured yet soft drape seen, consider substantial materials that hold shape, along with appropriate lining:
- Wool fabric
- Lining fabric
Additional Supplies
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve hem – 4.5 cm, other seams – 1 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Back - 1 piece
- Front - 2 pieces
- Yoke — 1 piece
- Back sleeve — 2 pieces
- Front sleeve — 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Back - 1 piece
- Front - 2 pieces
- Yoke — 1 piece
- Back sleeve — 2 pieces
- Front sleeve — 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Front facing, back neckline facing, sleeve hem allowance, garment hem allowance.
Attention: Front and back pieces from lining are cut subtracting the width of the front facings and back neckline facing respectively.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch darts on the front. Press darts upwards. Attach yokes to the back and front pieces. Press seams towards the yoke.
- Stitch the upper edge of the sleeve. Press seam open.
- Set in the sleeve into the open armhole. Press seam open. Stitch the sleeve edge and side edge in one seam. Press seams open.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing.
- Place the front facing with its facing piece on the right side of the front piece, right side down, pin and stitch the front edge and neckline. Stitching is done from the front piece side. Topstitch the seam allowance of the front edge to the front facing. The stitching should be 0.2 cm from the seam. Stitch the lower edges of the front facings to the front piece strictly along the marked hemline. Trim seams at corners. Turn the front edges to the right side, straighten seams, press.
- Stitch the lining pieces similarly to the main fabric pieces, leaving an unstitched section in the lower left sleeve seam for subsequent turning. Attach the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and back neckline facing.
- Attach the lining to the bottom of the garment and the bottom of the sleeve. Turn the jacket to the right side. Stitch the technological opening closed.
- Topstitch 1 cm from the edge along the front edge and neckline. Topstitch 3.5 cm from the bottom of the sleeve. Note: The jacket has no closure, the front edges of the jacket meet flush. If desired, a decorative loop can be made.
