Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: double-sided silk dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. Also needed: concealed zipper, fusible interfacing; 2 hooks and 2 eyes.
CUTTER'S MUST
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: hem allowance for the dress bottom – 3.0 cm; other seams 1 cm; ATTENTION! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). Inscriptions on the patterns are made on the right side.
- From main fabric:
- Left upper front part - 1 piece
- Right upper front part - 1 piece
- Side front part - 2 pieces
- Side back part - 2 pieces
- Center back part - 1 piece
- Back skirt panel – 1 piece
- Front skirt panel – 1 piece
- Detachable skirt panel – 1 piece
- Left collar part - 2 pieces
- Right collar part - 2 pieces
- Belt – 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Left collar part - 1 piece
- Right collar part - 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Fuse interfacing to collar pieces.
- Stitch the back princess seams, press allowances towards the center and overcast. Stitch the front princess seams, press allowances towards the center and overcast.
- Stitch shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and overcast.
- Fold the right collar pieces right sides together and stitch the outer edge and center edge up to the mark. Trim allowances at the corner, clip curves. Fold the left collar pieces right sides together and stitch the outer edge and center edge up to the mark. Trim allowances at the corner, clip curves. Fold the left collar with the right, right sides together, and stitch the open sections of the center edge. Press allowances open, turn the collar right side out, shape and press.
- Fold the collar with the wrong side of the upper dress part and attach along the neckline edge. Press allowances, clip, overcast. Turn the collar to the right side. Secure the raw edge of the left collar part with the edge of the left front part, forming a 1 cm collar stand, and overcast. Lay the right front part over the left, fold back the right collar part, and topstitch, aligning the pieces along the waistline. Secure the raw edge of the right collar part with the lower edge of the front, creating small pleats.
- Stitch darts on the skirt panels, press depths towards the center. Overcast the allowance of the outer edge of the detachable panel, press to the wrong side and topstitch. Along the upper edge, create and secure pleats according to markings. Lay the detachable panel over the front panel and secure along the side and upper edges (the detachable panel is shorter than the front panel by the hem allowance width).
- Attach the back and front skirt panels to the upper back and front parts. Press allowances upwards and overcast.
- Cut (if not ready-made) a bias strip 4 cm wide for armhole finishing. Fold the bias strip in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Fold the strip with the armhole edge, right side facing, and stitch, then turn the strip to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold to the main piece.
- Overcast the left side seams separately on the back and front. Stitch the left side seams from the armhole to the upper mark and from the lower mark downwards, press allowances open, pressing the slit for the zipper. Insert the zipper. Stitch the right side seams, press allowances towards the back, overcast.
- Overcast the bottom edge of the garment. Fold to the wrong side, press and hem with blind stitches.
- Fold the belt in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch along the contour, leaving an opening for turning and inserting hooks and eyes into the short sides. Trim allowances at the corners. Turn the belt right side out, shape corners and press. Stitch the turning opening closed.
- Cut a bias strip for a decorative rose, 90 cm long and 12 cm wide. Fold the rose piece in half lengthwise, right side out, overcast the edges. Stitch along the edges with loosely tensioned stitches and gather. Form a flower from the piece and secure it to the belt.
