Collarless Jacket with Cuffed Sleeves
Introducing a women's sewing pattern for a chic, collarless jacket, distinguished by its gracefully curved open front and stylish cuffed long sleeves.
When To Wear
This versatile jacket is perfect for adding a touch of refined elegance to various outfits, suitable for:
-
Smart Casual Gatherings: Ideal for lunch dates, museum visits, or semi-formal social events.
-
Office & Professional Wear: a sophisticated layering piece over blouses or dresses in a professional setting.
-
Transitional Seasons: Provides a polished outer layer during cooler spring or autumn days.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a tailored cropped silhouette designed to sit just below the natural waist, offering a flattering and contemporary fit.
Neckline: Collarless, featuring a graceful rounded front opening that extends into a gentle V-shape.
Closure: a single-point front closure secured with one button and a corresponding loop.
Sleeves: Three quarter set-in sleeves finished with wide, turn-back cuffs for a distinctive detail.
Waist: Defined by a horizontal seam, separating the upper bodice from a fitted lower front, creating a structured waistline.
Back: Features a clean center back seam and waist seam, ensuring a shaped and fitted look.
Hem: Curved at the front opening and straight at the sides and back, following the line of the lower jacket band.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Involves precise dart work, setting in sleeves, constructing cuffed details, lining, and creating a button loop.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose fabrics with some body and drape that will hold the jacket's tailored shape:
- Suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibers
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing
- 1 button
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Upper front – 2 pieces
- Lower front – 4 pieces
- Upper back – 2 pieces
- Lower back – 4 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Front lining – 2 pieces
- Back lining – 2 pieces
- Sleeve lining – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: front facing, back neckline facing, cuff.
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Fuse interfacing to the front facing, back neckline facing, and cuffs.
- Stitch darts on the front and back. Press dart allowances towards the center. Stitch the center back seam. Press seam allowances open.
- Stitch side and shoulder seams. Press seam allowances towards the back. Stitch the center seam and side seams on the lower parts of the jacket. Attach the lower parts to the front and back. Press seam allowances open.
- Stitch the sleeve seam. Press seam allowances open. Fold the cuff in half lengthwise and stitch the short sides. Attach the cuff to the sleeve, aligning the notch with the cuff seam. Set the sleeve into the armhole.
- Cut a bias strip 3 cm wide and long enough to equal the button diameter plus 2 cm. Fold the strip in half lengthwise and stitch 0.3 cm from the fold. Trim seam allowances and turn right side out. Secure the loop on the right front at the level of the lower attachment seam.
- On the lining fabric pieces, stitch darts. Stitch side and shoulder seams. Set in sleeves, leaving an opening in the right sleeve seam.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the front facing and back neckline facing. Attach the front facing and back neckline facing to the jacket lining. Press seam allowances towards the lining. Stitch the center and side seams of the lower parts. Attach the lower parts to the lining. Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, and stitch along the front edge, neckline, and lower edge. Stitching is done from the front side. Attach the lining to the inner edge of the cuff. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve. Stitch the opening in the sleeve closed. Topstitch along the cuff attachment seam.
- Sew on the button.
