Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibers (cotton, thin denim). Also needed: concealed zipper, fusible interlining, lining fabric, 7 buttons, leather strap 4 cm wide.
CUTTER'S MUST
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for dress bottom and sleeve bottom – 2.0 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). Markings on patterns are on the right side.
- From main fabric:
- Upper back part - 2 pieces
- Lower back part - 2 pieces
- Upper front part – 1 piece
- Lower front part - 1 piece
- Yoke — 1 piece
- Pocket — 2 pieces
- Belt loop — 6 pieces
- Collar — 2 pieces
- Sleeve - 2 pieces
- From lining:
- Pocket lining — 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Stitch the belt loop to the pocket lining. Press the seam open. Fold the pocket with the lining right sides together and stitch along the contour, leaving the side edge open. Clip curves, trim corners, turn pieces right side out and press. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the edge.
- Fold the remaining belt loop pieces in pairs right sides together and stitch along the contour, leaving the bottom edge open. Trim corners, turn pieces right side out and press. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the edge.
- Stitch darts on back pieces. Press darts towards the center seam. Stitch upper and lower back parts, inserting belt loops into the seam. Belt loops are positioned in the middle of the dart. Press seam down and overcast. Topstitch belt loops along the transverse mark.
- On both lower back pieces, reinforce the vent from the wrong side. On the right side, mark the center seam line (vent fold line). Stitch the center back edge up to the vent corner. Clip the vent seam allowance corner. Overcast the center back seam and vent allowances separately. Press center seam allowances to the left side. Press the right side of the vent 1 cm to the wrong side and topstitch. Press vent allowances towards the left side seam and topstitch along the top with a machine stitch.
- Stitch darts on front pieces. Press waist darts towards the center front, bust darts - upwards. Stitch upper and lower front parts. Press seam down and overcast.
- Mark the pocket attachment line on the lower front part, and a transverse mark at the dart level on the upper front part. Topstitch the pocket along the outer contour up to the transverse mark and along it.
- Reinforce the placket allowance for the closure only on the front piece. Overcast and press the placket allowance on the front and on the yoke. Secure the front to the yoke along the armhole line.
- Stitch shoulder seams and the right side seam, press allowances towards the back and overcast. Overcast the left side seam separately and stitch, leaving the section between the marks unstitched. Press the seam open, pressing the zipper opening. Insert the zipper.
- Fold collar pieces right sides together and stitch the ends and the outer edge of the collar. Start and end stitching strictly at the marked collar attachment seam line. Turn the finished collar right side out, straighten corners and press. Stitch the outer edge of the collar to the neckline, aligning the round mark on the collar with the center back seam. Press the seam towards the collar. Turn under the open inner edge of the collar and topstitch into the collar attachment seam. Topstitch 0.5 cm from the collar edge. Secure the front and yoke together along the collar attachment seam.
- Stitch the sleeve edge. Press the seam and overcast. Set sleeves into armholes, aligning notches. Press the seam and overcast.
- Overcast the hem allowance for the dress bottom and sleeve bottom, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
- On the front and belt loops, sew buttons through according to markings. Thread the strap through the belt loops.
