Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: Medium to high stretch knit fabric made from natural or blended fibers. Also needed: decorative cord for the hood, bias tape.
CUTTER'S MUST
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: hem allowance – 1.5 cm, other seams 0.8 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need. When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Upper front piece – 1 piece
- Back – 2 pieces
- Lower front piece – 1 piece on fold
- Pocket – 2 pieces
- Side panel – 2 pieces
- Front hood piece – 2 pieces
- Back hood piece – 2 pieces
Tip: Knit fabric pieces are stitched with a special elastic or narrow zigzag stitch. The hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle or on a coverstitch machine to maintain elasticity. You can also stitch pieces directly on a 3- or 4-thread overlock machine.
Sewing Instructions
- Mark and stitch darts on the upper front piece. Trim dart excess with an overlock.
- Stitch the center back seam. Overlock allowances and press to the left side.
- Along the lower and center edges of the pocket, stitch with loosely tensioned stitches and gather. Stitch the side panel and pocket along the lower and center edges. Overlock allowances. Fold the pocket and lower front piece right sides together and stitch the pocket opening. Turn the pocket to the wrong side and secure at the side and upper edges.
- Along the upper edge of the front piece between the pocket openings, stitch with loosely tensioned stitches and gather. Stitch the upper and lower front pieces. Overlock allowance and press upwards.
- Stitch shoulder seams. Overlock allowances and press towards the back.
- Cut bias tape 4 cm wide and equal to the armhole length + 5 cm. Fold the bias tape in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the bias tape with the armhole edge right sides together and stitch. Fold the bias tape to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold to the main piece. Press the seam.
- Stitch side seams. Overlock allowances and press towards the back. Secure the bias tape at the side seam.
- Overlock buttonholes on the front hood piece (on one piece). Stitch the upper edge of the front hood piece. Fold the front hood pieces right sides together and stitch along the concave edge. Turn right side out. Topstitch 2 cm from the hood edge, forming a casing. Stitch the curved edge of the back hood piece. Overlock allowance. Stitch the front and back hood pieces. Overlock allowances. Insert the hood into the neckline, overlock allowance. Thread the cord through the casing.
- Overlock the lower edge of the garment. Fold to the wrong side, press, and topstitch.
