Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: dressmaking fabrics, well-draping fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. Also needed: concealed zipper, fusible interfacing.
CUTTER'S MUST
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. SEAM ALLOWANCES: hem allowance for the dress – 2 cm, hem allowance for the sleeve – 1.5 cm, allowance along the back slit – 2 cm, other seams 1 cm. ATTENTION! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need.
- From main fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Lower back – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Center front – 1 piece
- Lower front – 1 piece
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Front facing — 1 piece
- Back facing — 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Back and front facings, allowances along the back slit.
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the NOTCHES - they must match!
- Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing.
- Stitch the princess seams of the upper back. Overcast the seams and press them towards the center seam. Stitch the darts on the lower back. Press the darts towards the center.
- Stitch the upper and lower back pieces. Overcast the seam and press it upwards. Overcast the center back edge. Stitch the center seam from the notch for the zipper to the slit. Press the seam open, pressing the zipper slit. Insert the zipper from the top edge to the notch.
- Stitch the princess seams of the front. Overcast the seam and press it towards the side seam. On the lower front, create soft pleats according to the markings. The pleat depths are directed towards the side seam. Stitch the upper and lower front pieces. Clip the seam on the curves, overcast, and press upwards.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the back and front. Press the allowances open.
- Stitch the neckline facings. Press the seams open. Overcast the outer edge of the facings. Place the facings with the neckline right sides together. Fold back the facing 5 mm from the edges of the concealed zipper and pin it to the top edge of the dress. On the right side of the dress, fold back the allowances along the zipper and pin them to the neckline edge over the facing. Stitch the neckline edge. Clip the seam on the curves, turn the pieces right side out and press. Fold the allowances along the zipper to the wrong side and attach them to the zipper tape.
- On the sleeve, mark and create pleats. The pleat depths are directed downwards. Secure the pleats along the sleeve cap. Fold the sleeve right sides together, matching the notches. Stitch the section from the top corner to the notches. Clip the allowance near the mark, overcast the seam. Stitch the sleeve seam, overcast and press. Turn the sleeve right side out, leaving the upper stitched corner inside. Set the sleeves into the armhole. Ensure that the allowances from the corner do not get caught in the setting seam. Overcast the allowance and press it towards the front.
- Overcast the bottom edge of the garment and the bottom edge of the sleeve. Fold to the wrong side, press, and hem with blind stitches. Hem the sides of the slit with blind stitches.
