Blazer with Asymmetrical Draped Bow Collar
Introducing a women's sewing pattern for a fitted blazer, distinguished by its elegant asymmetrical draped bow collar and single-button closure.
When To Wear
This blazer offers a sophisticated touch for various occasions, including:
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Business & Professional Settings: Its tailored fit and refined details make it perfect for office wear or client meetings.
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Smart Casual Events: Pair it with dress pants or a skirt for dinners, luncheons, or elevated everyday style.
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Special Occasions: The unique asymmetrical bow collar adds a distinctive flair suitable for semi-formal gatherings.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Elegantly fitted through the bust and waist, creating a flattering silhouette.
Neckline & Collar: Features a V-neckline without a traditional collar, beautifully adorned with an asymmetrical, draped collar on one side.
Closure: a single button secures the blazer at the waist for a clean finish.
Sleeves: Long, two-piece set-in sleeves provide a smooth, tailored arm line.
Back: Designed with central and side back panels to achieve its structured and fitted shape.
Hem: The front hemline is gracefully curved, rising slightly towards the center front.
Length: Sits at the hip for a contemporary and versatile length.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. This pattern involves tailored construction techniques, including fitting a multi-panel bodice, working with lining and interfacing, setting two-piece sleeves, and creating a draped ruffle.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose lightweight suiting materials with good drape and structure, and a companion fabric for the ruffle:
- Thin suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibers
- Dense silk (for the companion fabric, likely the ruffle)
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- Lining fabric
- Thin shoulder pads
- 1 button
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for sleeve hem 3.5 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- Upper bow – 1 piece
- Bow Tab — 1 piece
- Back hem facing — 1 piece
- From silk:
- From lining fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
Attention: back and front pieces from lining fabric are cut deducting the width of the back neckline facing, back hem facing, and front facing respectively. From fusible interfacing: front facing, back neckline facing, back hem facing, center front, side front, lower bow, sleeve hem.
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces. Along the front neckline, apply an additional fusible stay tape.
- Stitch the dart on the center front piece. Press the dart upwards. Stitch and press open the princess seam on the front.
- Stitch the dart on the center back piece. Stitch and press open the back princess seams. Stitch and press open the center back seam. Stitch and press open the jacket's shoulder and side seams.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing. Attach the back hem facing to the front facing. Press seams open.
- Fold the bow tab piece in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch along the long side. Turn the tab right side out and press, centering the seam.
- Fold the upper and lower bow pieces right sides together and stitch the upper and lower sides. Turn the pieces right side out and press. Overlap the bows and secure them along the raw edge.
- Place the tab on the front according to the markings, with the bridge seam facing up and the free end directed towards the armhole. Topstitch the bow tab to the front according to the markings. Attach the bows to the right front neckline. Wrap the bridge around the bow and attach the free end to the neckline edge.
- Stitch and press open the sleeve's elbow seam, easing the upper sleeve and matching notches. Press up the sleeve hem. Turn back the hem allowance, stitch and press open the sleeve's front seam.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching notches and easing the sleeve cap at the top. Attach shoulder pads.
- On the lining pieces, stitch the seams and set the sleeves, leaving an opening for turning in the left elbow seam. Attach the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and back facings.
- Place the front facing with its back facing onto the right side of the front piece, right side down, pin, and stitch along the front edge, front neckline, back neckline, and jacket hem. Stitch from the front side. Topstitch the seam allowance of the front edge to the front facing. The stitching should be 0.2 cm from the seam.
- Attach the lining to the sleeve hem. Turn the jacket right side out. Stitch the technical opening closed.
- On the right front, make a buttonhole; on the left front, sew on the button.
