Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: silk dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. You will also need: a concealed zipper, fusible interfacing.
CUTTER'S MUST
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: hem allowance for the dress – 3.0 cm; hem allowance for the sleeve – 1.5 cm; allowance along the vent – 6 cm; other seams 1 cm; ATTENTION! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). Markings on the patterns are on the right side.
- From main fabric:
- Left front part - 1 piece
- Right front part - 1 piece
- Center back part - 2 pieces
- Side back part - 2 pieces
- Sleeve - 2 pieces
- Left collar part - 2 pieces
- Right collar part - 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Left front neckline facing – 1 piece
- Right front neckline facing – 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
- Left front neckline facing – 1 piece
- Right front neckline facing – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match! Markings on the patterns are on the right side.
- Fuse interfacing to the back and front neckline facings.
- On the left center back piece, trim 5 cm along the vertical edge of the vent. On both center back pieces, fuse interfacing to the vent from the wrong side. On the right side, mark the center seam line (the fold line of the vent). Press the left part along the vent fold line; on the right part, press only the allowance of the right side of the vent (6 cm) to the wrong side. Align the pieces along the center seam and secure at the upper edge of the vent. Overlock the center back edge separately on each piece. Overlock the vent allowances. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper notch to the vent corner. Clip the corner of the vent seam allowance on the right part. Press open the center seam allowances, press the vent allowances and secure them with machine stitching. Insert the zipper from the top edge to the notch.
- Stitch the back princess seams, press allowances towards the center and overlock.
- On the left front, create and secure the pleats along the princess seam as follows: start from the bottom pleat and create all on the right side. Join the two bottom marks together, directing the resulting inner fold downwards. Pin the pleat. Join the next two bottom marks together and pin (directing the inner fold downwards), and so on. The inner folds of all pleats are directed downwards.
- Stitch the front princess seam. Clip the allowance at the upper mark of the right front piece. Press allowances towards the right piece, overlock.
- Fold the right collar pieces right sides together and stitch the two outer edges. Trim allowances at the corner, turn the collar right side out, press. Fold the left collar pieces right sides together and stitch the two outer edges. Trim allowances at the corner, turn the collar right side out, press. Attach the right collar to the front princess seam, the left collar to the neckline opening and shoulder seam.
- Stitch the shoulder seams (note that the left collar is included in the shoulder seam), press allowances towards the back, overlock. Stitch the side seams, press allowances towards the back, overlock.
- Overlock the lower edge of the sleeve, press to the wrong side and topstitch. Set sleeves into armholes, press. Trim armhole and sleeve cap allowances to 0.7 cm.
- Cut a bias strip 3.5 cm wide and equal to the armhole length. Bind the armhole all around. Press the seam.
- Stitch the center front edge of the front facings and the shoulder seams of the facings, overlock the outer edge, place them with the dress and stitch the back neckline edge, the section of the right princess seam, and the front neckline. Clip allowances at curves, turn facings to the wrong side. Fold under the allowance of the center back facing edge and attach it to the zipper tape. Topstitch along the back and front neckline 0.1 cm from the stitching line, folding back the collars, and at the ends of the collars.
- Overlock the bottom edge of the garment. Fold to the wrong side, press and hem with blind stitches.
