Pintuck Button Front Tab Sleeve Tunic

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: Shirting fabric made of natural or blended fibers (cotton, viscose, polyester). Also needed: fusible interfacing, 9 buttons, piping trim.

CUTTER'S MUST

If the patterns have a double contour, they include SEAM ALLOWANCES. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: Hem allowance – 1.5 cm, other seams – 1 cm. ATTENTION! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

• From main fabric:
  • Upper back part - 1 piece
  • Lower back part - 1 piece
  • Upper front part - 2 pieces
  • Lower front part - 2 pieces
  • Placket – 4 pieces
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Collar – 2 pieces
  • Collar stand – 2 pieces
  • Tab – 4 pieces
  • Cuff — 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Collar – 1 piece
  • Collar stand – 1 piece
  • Placket – 2 pieces
  • Cuff — 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

When stitching pieces, pay attention to the NOTCHES - they must match!

1. Fuse interfacing to the plackets, cuffs, upper collar, and inner collar stand.
2. Place the upper collar and lower collar right sides together. Stitch the ends and the outer edge of the collar. Trim the seams. Turn the collar right side out, shape, and press. Place the collar stand pieces right sides together, insert the prepared collar between them, align the notches, and stitch, simultaneously stitching the ends of the collar stand. Start and end the stitching strictly at the marked line of the collar stand attachment seam. Turn the finished collar right side out and press.
3. On the upper front part, create and stitch the pleats along the marked lines. Note: the pleat depths are directed towards the front edge, and the folds are directed towards the side seam. Press the pleats.
4. Stitch the darts on the upper front part. Press the darts upwards. On the lower front part, create and secure soft pleats. The pleat depths are directed towards the center front.
5. Along the upper edge of the lower back part, stitch with loosely tensioned stitches and gather. Stitch the side seams separately on the upper and lower front and back parts. Overlock the seams and press towards the back. Stitch the upper and lower parts together, inserting piping into the seam. Overlock the seam and press upwards.
6. Place the plackets right sides together and stitch the pieces along the outer edge. Turn the plackets right side out and press. Attach the outer placket to the front. Press the seam towards the placket. Fold the inner placket inwards and topstitch into the attachment seam.
7. Stitch the shoulder seams. Overlock the seams and press towards the back.
8. Attach the upper collar stand with the collar to the neckline, fold the open edge of the lower collar stand inwards, and topstitch into the upper collar stand attachment seam.
9. Place the tab pieces in pairs right sides together and stitch the long sides and the corner. Turn the pieces right side out, press, and topstitch 0.1 cm from the edge. Create a buttonhole according to the markings. On the wrong side of the sleeve, topstitch the open edge of the tab strictly along the marked lines.
10. On the sleeve, stitch the tucks: fold the piece along the marked line and stitch 0.1 cm from the fold. Press the piece. Overlock the sleeve edges. Stitch the sleeve edges up to the notch. Press the seams open. Along the sleeve cap, stitch with loosely tensioned stitches and gather. Set the sleeves into the armholes. Overlock the seam and press towards the sleeve.
11. Fold the cuffs in half lengthwise right sides together and stitch the side edges. Start and end the stitching strictly at the marked line of the cuff attachment. Turn the cuffs right side out and press. Along the bottom of the sleeve, stitch with loosely tensioned stitches and gather. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve. Fold the inner side of the cuff inwards and topstitch into the attachment seam.
12. Overlock the bottom edge of the garment, press it to the wrong side, and topstitch.
13. On the right front, create buttonholes; on the left, sew on buttons. Create buttonholes and sew on buttons on the cuffs. Sew buttons on the right side of the sleeve, centered on the tab topstitching.