Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: dense dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers, contrast fabric. Also needed: lining fabric; fusible interfacing; concealed zipper; 2 buttons with a diameter of 1 cm; 5 buttons with a diameter of 2 cm.
CUTTER'S MUST
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance – 3 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Upper back part - 2 pieces
- Central lower back part – 2 pieces
- Side lower back part – 2 pieces
- Central upper front part – 1 piece
- Side upper front part – 2 pieces
- Central lower front part – 1 piece
- Side lower front part – 2 pieces
- Left back facing - 2 pieces
- Right back facing - 2 pieces
- Strap - 2 pieces
- From contrast fabric:
- Back insert - 2 pieces
- Front insert - 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Upper back part lining - 2 pieces
- Central upper front part – 1 piece
- Side upper front part – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Back neckline facing - 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Interface the back neckline facings with fusible interfacing.
- Stitch the princess seams on the lower back pieces, press seam allowances towards the center seam and overcast. Attach the back insert to the lower part, press seam allowances upwards and overcast. Attach the upper back part to the insert, press seam allowances downwards and overcast.
- Stitch the center back seam, press seam allowances and overcast. Press the left back part along the center line, forming a pleat.
- Stitch the princess seams on the lower and upper front pieces, press seam allowances towards the center front and overcast. Attach the front insert to the lower part, press seam allowances upwards and overcast. Attach the upper front part to the insert, press seam allowances downwards and overcast.
- Stitch the right side seam, press seam allowances towards the back and overcast. Overcast the raw edges of the left side seam. Stitch the left side seam from the zipper mark downwards, press seam allowances open. Insert the concealed zipper.
- Fold the strap in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the long edge. Turn right side out and press.
- Stitch the center back seam, front princess seams, and right side seam on the lining pieces. Press seam allowances and overcast. Overcast the lower and left side raw edges.
- Place the lining and the garment right sides together and stitch the neckline and armhole edges of the front, the upper edge of the back, inserting the lower end of the strap. Clip seam allowances at curves, turn the lining to the wrong side. Topstitch the lower edge of the lining into the seam attaching the upper back and front parts.
- Fold the back neckline facings wrong sides together and stitch the neckline edge and center seam exactly up to the marked line for stitching the lower edge. Clip seam allowances, turn the facing right side out, press. Press the lower edges of the outer and inner facings to the wrong side by 1 cm.
- Place the outer facing with the front at the shoulder seam, wrap with the inner facing and stitch. Turn the facing right side out, straighten, align the lower folds, insert the upper part of the strap between them and stitch.
- Press the hem allowance of the dress to the wrong side by 1 cm, then by another 2 cm and topstitch.
- According to the markings, overcast buttonholes on the neckline facing, and sew on buttons accordingly. Sew buttons on the back.
