Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: silk fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. You will also need: fusible interfacing, invisible zipper.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: neckline allowance for the front bodice – 2 cm, hem allowance – 2 cm, lower edge allowance for the front and back parts of all sleeve details – 0 cm, shoulder seam allowance at the sleeve cap – 1 cm, smoothly tapering to zero at the lower edge. Other seams 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED. WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From chiffon:
- Upper back part – 2 pieces
- Lower back part – 1 piece on fold
- Upper front part – 2 pieces
- Lower front part – 1 piece on fold
- Front yoke — 1 piece
- Back yoke — 1 piece
- Waistband — 2 pieces
- Front sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Back sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Small front sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Small back sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing — 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Back neckline facing - 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the neckline facing.
- Stitch darts on the upper back part. Press darts towards the center seam. Stitch the center seam of the upper back part. Press and overcast the seam. Overcast the outer edge of the back neckline facing. Face the back neckline with the facing. Clip the seam allowance at curves, turn the facing and press.
- On the right side of the upper front part, mark and stitch 3 pleats. The fold edge is directed towards the side seam. Press the neckline allowance of the front bodice twice by 1 cm. Fold back the first pleat and topstitch the allowance close to the pleat stitching line, thus placing the stitching under the pleat.
- Stitch with loosely tensioned stitches 0.5 cm from the edge along the lower edge of the upper front part. Gather between the notches. Stitch the upper front part to the yoke. Press the seam downwards and overcast.
- Attach the upper back part to the yoke. Press the seam downwards and overcast.
- On the lower back and front parts, create 2 box pleats and secure them at the upper edge. Stitch along the upper edge of the lower back and front parts with loosely tensioned stitches and slightly gather. Attach the lower back and front parts to the corresponding yoke pieces. Press the seam upwards and overcast.
- Fold the waistband pieces in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the long and diagonal edges. Turn the waistband right side out and press. Attach the waistband to the front yoke.
- Stitch the shoulder seams, enclosing the front shoulder seam with the back neckline facing. Overcast allowances, turn and press.
- Stitch the right side seam, press allowances towards the back and overcast. Overcast the left side seam separately. Stitch the left side seam from the armhole to the upper mark and from the lower mark to the hem. Insert the invisible zipper between the marks.
- Stitch the lower edge of the sleeve. Overcast the seam and press towards the back. Overcast the sleeve hem and shoulder edges of the sleeve from the cap to the sleeve hem with a narrow rolled hem. Stitch the shoulder seam section on the sleeve from the cap to the notch. Similarly, process the small sleeve pieces and attach them at the cap to the larger ones.
- Set the sleeve into the armhole. Overcast the seam and press.
- Fold the lower edge of the dress twice by 1 cm and topstitch.
