Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: thin suiting (dress) fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. Also needed: invisible zipper, fusible interfacing.
CUTTER'S MUST
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for dress bottom – 2.0 cm; sleeve hem – 1.5 cm; allowance along the vent and along the upper edge of the upper front part – 6 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).
- From main fabric:
- Upper back part - 2 pieces
- Middle back part - 2 pieces
- Lower back part - 2 pieces
- Upper front part – 1 piece
- Middle front part - 1 piece
- Lower front part - 1 piece
- Sleeve - 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing - 2 pieces
- Belt loop – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- Fuse the back neckline facing with fusible interfacing.
- Stitch darts on the upper and lower back pieces. Press darts towards the center seam. Attach the middle back part to the upper back part, press allowances down and overcast. Attach the lower back part to the middle back part, press allowances up and overcast.
- On the left lower back part, trim 5 cm along the vertical edge of the vent. On both lower back pieces, fuse the vent from the wrong side. On the right side, mark the center seam line (vent fold line). Press the left part along the vent fold line; on the right part, press only the allowance of the right side of the vent (6 cm) to the wrong side. Align the pieces along the center seam and secure at the upper edge of the vent. Overcast the center back edge separately on each piece. Overcast the vent allowances. Stitch the center back edge from the zipper mark to the vent corner. Clip the corner of the vent seam allowance on the right part. Press open the center seam allowances, press the vent allowances and secure them on the right side with machine stitching. Insert the zipper.
- Stitch darts on the lower front piece. Press darts towards the center of the piece. Attach the middle front part to the upper front part, press allowances down and overcast. Attach the lower front part to the middle front part, press allowances up and overcast.
- Stitch side seams, press allowances towards the back and overcast.
- Overcast the outer edges of the back neckline facings and the allowance of the upper front edge. Face the back neckline edge with the facing. Clip allowances at curves, turn facings to the right side, and press. Fold under the allowance of the center facing edge and attach it to the zipper tape.
- Stitch shoulder seams, catching the back neckline facing and enclosing the back shoulder edge with the allowance of the upper front edge. Overcast allowances, turn right side out.
- Overcast the lower sleeve edge, press to the wrong side and topstitch. Stitch the sleeve seam. Press allowances and overcast. Set sleeves into armholes, matching notches. Press allowances and overcast.
- Overcast the hem allowance of the dress bottom, press to the wrong side and hem with blind stitches.
- Fold the belt loop in half lengthwise, right sides together, align edges and stitch 0.5-0.7 cm from the edges. Then turn right side out, straighten the seam, positioning it on the fold, and press. Cut belt loops to size and topstitch according to markings. Insert a 2 cm wide leather strap.
