Fabric & Materials
FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS: raincoat fabrics made of natural or blended fibers, faux leather. For details on working with faux leather, please refer to the relevant section of the website. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: lining fabric; fusible interfacing; separating zipper; decorative cord; 2 eyelets; 2 cord stoppers; 2 non-separating zippers for pockets. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment and sleeve – 3 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details).
CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- Back – 1 piece on fold
- Front – 2 pieces
- Front Yoke – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back Neck Facing – 1 piece
- Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Hood – 2 pieces
- Center Hood – 1 piece
- Hood Facing – 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neck Facing – 1 piece
- Hood Facing – 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Back – 1 piece on fold
- Front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Hood Lining – 2 pieces
- Center Hood – 1 piece
- Large Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
- Small Pocket Bag – 2 pieces
The back lining piece is cut according to the main pattern, subtracting the width of the back neck facing.
Sewing Instructions
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- Interface the details with fusible interfacing.
- Mark the pocket placement with parallel lines. Cut the opening. At a distance of 1-1.5 cm from the end of the marking, make diagonal cuts. Turn the allowances to the wrong side through the resulting opening, straighten the edges. Place the zipper under the edges of the opening so that the teeth are visible and stitch. Stitch the lining right side to the wrong side of the zipper tape. Stitch the edges of the lining.
- Stitch the front yoke to the front. Press the allowances upwards. Topstitch 0.5 – 0.7 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the shoulder seams, press the allowances open.
- Stitch the sleeves to the garment, press the allowances towards the sleeve. Stitch the side seams, simultaneously with the sleeve seams, press the allowances towards the back.
- Stitch the side parts of the hood to the center part, press the allowances towards the center part. Install eyelets on the hood.
- Stitch the hood into the neckline, press the allowances open.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the front facings and back neck facing, press the allowances open. Stitch the hood pieces and center part from the lining fabric, press the allowances towards the center part. Stitch the facing to the hood lining, press the allowances towards the facing. Stitch the hood into the neckline of the front facings, press the allowances open.
- Place the front facings with the hood onto the main garment right sides together and stitch the edge of the front opening and hood, inserting the separating zipper. Clip the allowances at curves, trim at corners. Turn the front facings to the wrong side, straighten, and press. Secure the hood insertion allowances together. Along the front opening, topstitch 0.5-0.7 cm from the edge. Topstitch along the hood, forming a casing.
- Stitch the lining pieces, leaving an opening in the left side seam. Stitch the lining to the facing and front facings, to the bottom of the jacket. Turn the garment right side out through the technical opening. Stitch the lining to the bottom of the sleeve through the technical opening, press the allowances. Close the opening. Topstitch along the bottom of the garment 2 cm from the edge.
- Thread the cord through the casing, secure the cord stoppers.
